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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT Venting Options



The piston seals at about 1/2 pound, depending on the softness of your urethane gasket. You can get those springs a little stronger (up to 5 pounds or so, I believe). You won't need more than that. The top of the piston seals against the underside of a lip (a flat donut of material, say 2" ID and 3" OD X 1/8" thick or so, screwed to the top of a 2 1/2" cylinder that is about 2 inches long). The cylinder has a ring of holes drilled around it underneath the piston in its closed position. Piston stroke must be long enough to move the disc down past this row of holes, thus exposing the inside of the tank to the outside of the tank, so to speak. About a 1" stroke with a 1/8" D rod cylinder is all you need. The valve body (cylinder) has a welded flat on the bottom, vented to drain and center drilled for the pneumatic piston to mount through. The vent opens DOWNWARD to release ballast air, INSIDE the cylinder. To close the valve, you turn a 3-way ball valve the other way inside the boat, vent the cylinder and the spring drives the piston up again, past the vent holes in the cylinder to press up against the lip, closing the opening again. It's about the polar opposite of an automotive valve, which closes down and opens up (with reference to the sealing surface). Drawings to follow. I just reread this and damned if it doesn't sound complicated. It isn't. It is purest simplicity. I promise.
Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Wallace <jon@psubs.org>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Thu, 11 Dec 2008 8:03 am
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MBT Venting Options

Vance, 
 
You're welcome to speak, but a white paper (with diagrams and illustrations) or photo journal would work best for getting the info out to the masses. Using your camera to document each step in construction would be best. 
 
Is your design similar to automotive engine valves where they seal at the top? Or is the seal on the internal side of the MBT? It seems like the spring compression value for keeping the valve closed will be important. Am I correct that generally, you'd want a standing spring force equal to or exceeding the psi at maximum depth reached? How did you calculate the strength of the spring you need for the valve? 
 
Jon 
 


> I'll have all that stuff ready before the convention, so maybe I can > get a little ten minute talk stuck in there on how to build these > things. It's a home shop item. In fact, I guess a hacksaw and a drill > would be enough, if you weren't interested in pretty. I wish we were > sitting around a coffee table, because two minutes with a pencil and a > napkin, and you guys would know exactly what I was talking about. I do > have a new computer with a scanner and a new camera with a cable, so > I'll snap some shots of the valves being built. We ought to be done > here shortly, depending on when the cylinders get here. FedEx is > pretty loaded down these days, but I'll post it soonest, whenever > soonest happens to be. Soon, anyway. 

 
 
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