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Dan and Vance, I like your idea much better then what I currently have Dan. Some time I hope to see Vance's supper secret mushroom vent design. ;)' You guys got me to thinking and I think I might have a even better option that has some elements of both your guys ideas. A remote valve would need to be externally mounted above the highest point on the tanks in order to vent all the air. A large valve would stick out like a sore thumb or odd hood ornament. Then I would have two rods going down at an angle with a small pair of U joints at each end, unless I use two pairs of bevel gears near the conning tower and a short vertical rod between them. So what I was thinking was to have a piston type valve inside the top area of the MBT's with a 2 to 3 inch opening with a spring around the rod that protrudes vertically below the piston head that has one or more soft O-rings mounted on it. Then to that I'll attach a horizontal arm to the bottom of the vertical rod, which is operated at the other end by a horizontal rod that goes through the pressure hull heads. Then for the front MBT, the rod that is now inside the hull would have a small pair of bevel gears attached to it so you can go towards the port side of the hull. Once at the port side of the hull you have one more pair of bevel gears added so you can run a rod up to the pilot. This way you can have a low profile valve that when you turn the lever to open it, you have to hold it there for a few moments until the tanks have vented, then when you let go they spring shut. I saw a mini version of this piston valve on two inflatable pontoon fishing boats that I needed to let the air out of today. Another option to operate this type of valve, is to not use the internal actuating assembly I just mentioned, and instead use a pair of Habonim pneumatic valves just inside the heads. One in front and one in the aft. I've found them more commonly on ebay of late at very reasonable prices, from $50 to $150 each. I prefer the Compact 4's but the Compact II's are nice as well. http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=habonim&_sacat=0&_fromfsb=&_trksid=m270.l1313&_odkw=hamonim&_osacat=0 Regards, Szybowski To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-250 #118 In Action Date: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 09:31:22 -0500 From: vbra676539@aol.com Brent and Dan, I converted mine to George's reach rod assembly. It works very well, of course, but was a pain in the A to do initially. To tell the truth, I'm not sure I would do it again. You still end up with tubing running from the fairwater tanks. Dan's suggestion of a valve on each tank is better. And use a BIG valve, an inch at the minimum. Waiting for the MBTs to vent is torturous through little tubing. My new ones, pneumatic mushrooms for lack of a better term, will be two inch clear opening. That's about the size on most of the old Hyco boats, and those boys dive quick when the time comes. Having spent a lot of time waiting as the sub wallows around trying to vent, I can tell you with certainty that faster is better. Vance -----Original Message----- From: Dan H. <Jumachine@comcast.net> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Sent: Wed, 10 Dec 2008 7:46 am Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-250 #118 In Action Brent,
If I were you I think I would consider filling all the little holes and using the big holes for a standard rotating through hull with linkage to valves mounted directly on top of the MBT's. Or maybe plug all the holes and relocate new through hulls for the same purpose. That way you can eliminate the need for plumbing to the valves and the through hull / valve combination. The over all design may not look as clean but you can solve your valve and corrosion problems and they would vent much better also. I know if I had mine to do it over again, I would have done it that way.
Dan H
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