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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] question about general design?



Title: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] question about general design?
Ken, your basic reasoning is sound, but as often happens in submarines, there's more to it than meets the eye at first glance. 
 
First of all, when it comes to building subs, it makes sense to stay within guv'mint regulations a.m.a.p..  (Although I didn't always do this, I know better than to buck the system now.)  Seriously, there's a lot of reasons why one should, and some of them have to do with staying alive, and in this case, getting back to the surface (which is the same thing).
 
Uncle Sam says your sub must be designed with a certain amount of expendable commodities on board: I'm not looking at the book right now (and if I'm off by a pound or two I'm sure someone will take advantage of the opportunity to whack me in the head with volume, chapter, and verse) but off the top of my head I think a sub is required to carry a minimum of 72 hours of life support (Oxygen) for every soul on board; and enough compressed gas (usually high pressure air) to blow the ballast tanks eight times at design operating depth. 
 
OK. Now, let's use my little NAUTILUS as an example.  She's got about four cubic feet of ballast tank volume; on the surface those tanks hold four cubic feet of air.  Now, let's say 120 psi is about 8 atmospheres over ambient surface pressure; that means to equal a depth pressure of 120 psi (about 264 FSW) I'm going to need eight times normal volume or 32 cubic feet worth of air at 120 psi to even get the mud moving; and if I really want to BLOW, I want more pressure than that. 
 
Now, I haven't seen the tank you're talking about, but let's use one of those jobs from Grand Auto that are about 2 cubic feet in size.  At 120 psi, that tank only holds 16 cubic feet of air, and if I need 32 that won't even blow my tanks once.  And as soon as you crack the valve, the pressure will drop below 120 psi, and then it aint going to move any water at all; in fact, when tank pressure falls below depth pressure, you get water in your tank.  (Which is why I never burn my tanks down below 300 psi when scuba diving).
 
"But hey!." you say.  "I'm not going that deep!"  OK, let's look at that.   Let's say I'm only going to half that depth pressure. OK, I start out with barely enough air and pressure to blow my tanks once; but again, that falls off as tank pressure drops; so I'm only going to get my tanks part-way empty before my pressure falls below depth pressure and the system stops working  And that's at only 132 FSW.
 
Let's go a little shallower, say 66 FSW.  It looks like I've got enough to blow the tanks once; but remember, when tank pressure falls below depth pressure, the system fails; so I'd say there's still going to be a little water in the ballast tanks, and I've used up my air.
 
33 FSW?  OK, without running the math (whattaya want for free?!) it looks like it will blow once; maybe a tad more.  But that's it.  Not enough to meet government requirements, and not enough to give me a practical safety margin.
 
Also, keep in mind I'll probably be using some of that ballast air for minor trim adjustments to the tanks, and maybe other things (like emergency breathing); so that sparse supply I started with is looking like less and less with every passing moment.
 
Nope.  And considering the physical size of the tank in comparison to the amount of air it can carry, yours is a rip off of your precious space.  Why carry a tank that only holds 16 cubic feet of air at 120 psi when, for the same expenditure of floorspace in your sub, you can carry 80 cubic feet at 3000  psi?  Like I said to David of Osage: "It's better to have air and not need it, than vice-versa.")
 
(One thing just occurred to me, partly based on your statement that you don't know how deep 120 psi is.  Is the reason you want to use one of the cheapo tanks because you aren't a certified diver, and can't buy a scuba tank or get it filled?  If so, no offense but in my opinion you really ought to go out and get your training and C-card, for your own safety  I'm a hard-liner about people being certified divers if they're going to be messing around in experimental subs.  A knowledge of SCUBA will improve your sub design, enable you to operate more safely, and save your life if the bubble busts.  Get your C-card and buy a scuba tank, brother.)   
 
Anyway, right now I can't make it much clearer than that; my spare ribs are getting cold.  It's a semi-free country; and you are at liberty to do as you please; but if it were me, I wouldn't use one of those parts-store tanks when I can get the real thing.  One was made for use at depth underwater; the other wasn't.   The choice is yours, but......
 
 Old saying:  "Cheap sub not good; good sub not cheap".  Spend a few more dollars and get 25 times more air; that's the "akamai" way to go, for sure.
 
OK, I'm outtahere!  ;-)
 
Pat
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: ken and donna
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 1:48 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] question about general design?

Is my reasoning flawed?  If you have a off the shelf compressor bottle that is rated to 125psi that is outside your pressure hull, it would limit your diving to depths greater than 125psi (I don't know how many feet that is)   Otherwise, you aren't gonna blow ballast at 150psi with 125psi air.  So, if the tank always has pressure inside of it greater than the pressure outside, it ought to be happy as a clam.  They way I figure it, if the outside presure is 50psi and the tank is holding 75 psi, that's like having a tank at 25 psi with no pressure on the outside.  Being a newbie, I may be all wet, if so someone please  straighten me out.   Ken Harris
----- Original Message -----
From: David Buchner
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] question about general design?

At 19:43 +0000 08/07/01, Captain Nemo wrote:
   "Second question.  Are off the shelf air tanks that you would get at Home Depot that are rated up to 125PSI  sufficient for storing pressurized air for blowing your ballast?"
 
Nope.  Stick with high pressure air tanks.  Lots of reasons why.  We'll talk later...

Please do; I'm interested in understanding these reasons. The main one I can think of is that at that pressure, those things just don't hold all that much air. I used up almost all of mine yesterday, pre-charging a 20 gal. household water pressure tank to 28 psi. That wouldn't translate into much ballast-blowing, at all. Besides, those always make me uneasy by the time they get up to 120.