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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] question about general design?



 
----- Original Message -----
From: ken and donna
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 3:44 AM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] question about general design?

"Is it better to put as much stuff outside the crew compartment so that the amount of ballast necessary to reach neutral bouancy is minimized or to focus on putting as much stuff inside as possible so that you minimize the number of holes in the crew compartment?"
 
Depends on your design.  I've seen 'em built both ways.  Keep in mind, placing stuff outside will add to the displacement, and could add to the buoyancy of the boat, if the pods you put things like, say, battery packs in displace a volume of water that weighs more than the pods themselves do.  These are  factors you must consider during the design phase.  You can buld a sub with all the goodies inside or outside the pressure hull; that's up to you.  Generally, I think keeping it all inside makes the design math simpler, if nothing else.  But it all depends on how much stuff you have, the size of the pressure hull you intend to build, and so forth.
 
   "Second question.  Are off the shelf air tanks that you would get at Home Depot that are rated up to 125PSI  sufficient for storing pressurized air for blowing your ballast?"
 
Nope.  Stick with high pressure air tanks.  Lots of reasons why.  We'll talk later...
 
"My sub would be rated to perhaps 50ft and operated at more than say 25ft."
 
Generally, I don't recommend that people try to build a flimsy sub.  Build it stronger than you think it needs to be.  After spending all the time and money to build anything, you'll be glad you built a good one; from a standpoint of functionality, especially if some unforseen circumstance takes you deeper than you planned to go.
 
"And if not, what is recommended."
 
Standard high pressure air tanks.  Many guys use SCUBA tanks.
 
 "What mechanizism or used to hold drop weights in place. "
 
A simple mechanical linkage will work.  A stainless shaft penetrating the hull via a watertight coupler (machined sleeve with O-rings); there's a lever on your end, and a cam-lug on the end that connects to a key-way in the drop weight.  Turning the lever rotates the shaft, aligns the lug with the keyway and the weight freefalls away.
 
"Solenoids or Pneumatic.   I assume they would have to be deadman type devices like air breaks ."
 
Yeah, you can do that kind of thing, but it's a hassle.  The bathyscaphe TRIESTE had a hopper filled with lead shot, and a valve held shut electromagnetically.  When the power was cut (or failed), the valve automatically opened, the lead shot dropped out, and the boat came up.  But this is a high-dollar project intended for really deep use.  For the kind of boats guys like us build in our backyards or garages, the mechanical linkage is good.
 
"As soon as I get a scanner, I'll send you some diagrams.  Thanks Ken."
 
For sure.  Talk to ya later.
 
Pat