Hi, Alec,
I checked Wikipedia for the different types of 3D printers and learned
more than I have the capacity to absorb at this point. ABS might be a
good alternative to metal for actuator housings. I'm sure I'll be
considering the question for a number of components.
By the way, last week I went through your Snoopy250 and Snoopy Updates
postings on the Psubs website. Picked up some good ideas and
suggestions. Thanks for taking the time to take all those pics and
post your comments.
Take care,
Jim
In a message dated 2/12/2012 7:33:16 P.M. Central Standard Time,
Alec.Smyth@compuware.com writes:
Hi Jim,
There are a variety of materials available, but the two most
common are ABS and PLA. For kids toys and such I'm using PLA
because it's biodegradable. If you're going to be melting plastic
inside the house for hours on end, it strikes me as preferable to
use something that is derived from plants and doesn't smell bad.
For sub parts, though, I'd use ABS because it's stronger. I don't
have specs handy, but it's the same material Legos are made of, so
should be relatively tough.
There is no manufacturer for the machine, I made it from parts
that I collected from a variety of sources - mainly eBay. As for
accuracy, it's highly variable and depends, from what I've seen,
much more on the experience of the person calibrating than the
inherent capabilities of the machine. I'm a rank beginner, so I
don't expect to make anything superb, but the quality I'm getting
at this point is sufficient that I would not feel bad putting
parts on the sub, presentation-wise. I'd say it's functional and
not embarrasing, but certainly not yet the finish you'd expect
from a mass produced, molded item.
If you want to read a little about this stuff, do an online search
for "reprap", which is a collaborative, online project to develop
these machines, or for "Prusa Mendel", which is the particular
sort of printer I built, a model developed by the Reprap project.
More generally, common terms for this topic are "additive
manufacturing" and "desktop manufacturing".
Best,
Alec
On Feb 12, 2012, at 8:02 PM, "JimToddPsub@aol.com
<mailto:JimToddPsub@aol.com>" <JimToddPsub@aol.com
<mailto:JimToddPsub@aol.com>> wrote:
Hi, Alec,
I don't have any need at the moment, however I'd like to hear
more about the material's properties and characteristics such as
torsion strength, etc. Are there different formulations of
plastic material for use with your 3D printer at this time?
How precisely can it produce an item? Is there general info
available online at the manufacturer's website?
Thanks for the offer. I'll need to take a closer look at 3D
printing in general versus machine work when I get to that point.
Best regards,
Jim T.
In a message dated 2/12/2012 4:32:22 P.M. Central Standard Time,
Alec.Smyth@compuware.com <mailto:Alec.Smyth@compuware.com> writes:
Hi everyone,
I’d mentioned a few weeks ago I was working on a3D printer.
Itisnowcalibratedandworking really nicely.Ihave to say, it’s
a neat concept tojusthit a button and
watchthingsmaterializewithout further intervention.Now the
question is what toprint.There are twomainlimitations:
- Partsmustfitona build areameasuring6.75”x 6.75”and4”tall,
orthey have to be assembled from parts that fit into that space.
- Overhangs have to begradual. To illustrate, consider
printing amodel of ahouse.You wouldhave to print the roof as
a separate part and then attach it to the walls,otherwise
when the nozzle reached the height of the eaves it could not
print thembecause they would beunsupported.
I know there are some terrific CAD artists in the house, and
I’d like to invite you to undertakethe design ofprintablesub
componentson an“open source”basis. I’d be quite happy to
printthoseparts for just the cost of the plastic,if we can
come up with some commonsub components. Wecouldmake parts
assimpleashandles forKittredge stylehatchdogs, ormaybeattempt
an UWlight or a scrubber.Maybe we can even start a repository
for the files.
Any takers?
Thanks,
Alec
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