I just been looking at your cad drawings they are excellent well
done.
ps do you like black powder rifles I do there's its great hunting
in Africa with a musket.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 11:42
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original
KL-250 Blown Dome Specs
Thank you very much Frank. Some times when I think the rendering
looks really fuzzy and bad, I realize I've been steering at it to long and my
eyes are shot and it's 4 am. It can take hundreds of adjustments to get
it just the way you want it. Then you might notice some odd thing that makes
you have to start over. Sorta like seeing a Nike shoe in a wild west movie. I
was zooming in on a rendering done on a Uboat-Worx boat the other day, and had
to laugh when I saw a reflection on a part that showed a type of .hdr file
picture that I use in my rendering engine. So very possibly they are
using SolidWorks PhotoWorks rendering software as well. So you can get a even
better idea of what can be done on your assembly. But unless I upgrade my CAD
computer first I'll have to use just the parts of the assembly that show on
the outside, and then also that the same thing in the interior
renderings.
That gel coat will really clean your fairings up visually,
so you can really enjoy your hard work. Just tell your grandsons that they can
play with the real one while our gone, if they let you borrow the model.
;} I'll be adding some resin coats to the outer surface of my original
FRP MBT's today to fill in all the little bubble voids that are there because
no gel coat was used before they were formed in the molds. I had to sand blast
off the last gummy coat of paint that was applied to them so I could sand them
down to the surface I want. I'll then do some filler work, then gel coat the
whole works, sand, then coat again. Then I'll be making molds off
them, for those that want that type of original K-250 MBTs. Then I'll
make a set of parts in those to be used as the upper part of the mold
plugs for my new MBTs with the curved under, partly capped bottoms, like on
Persistence.
Yes I'm still planning to install a acrylic cylinder above the
existing conning tower. I'm still of two minds of how to attach it. Either
will work, but one is old school and stronger, while the other gives a much
better view and is much much lighter and easier to fab. The heavy one is
much like the bar type used on the S101, and the lighter one is using a bonded
on rim ring on top and the bottom, and no prison bars. I'm working on assembly
models of each configuration so I can better show the design and get some
solid feed back on them. I could put a domed hatch above the acrylic
cylinder section. But I don't need it for the head room and I'll get a much
more accurate view with a 3 inch thick flat window as the main part of the
hatch. I'm having trouble making my original ideas for a hatch that can be
opened from inside or out work with such a large window hatch, with no metal
to speak of in it. So I might have to go back to the metal one I had worked
out with a large window in the center, and a three dog locking means that
operates on a single lever from inside or out.
The other issue was I wanted a large valve in the hatch for
letting out the remaining air in the sub after flooding it during a wet exit
exercise or the real thing. With the metal hatch that's an easy configuration
to make. But for the almost all acrylic hatch, I wasn't seeing how to work it
out, without adding a short steal collar cylinder section above the acrylic
cylinder. But I think Alec might have the solution with using the bungee cord
attached to the hatch.
Cheers,
Brent
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original KL-250 Blown Dome
Specs
Brent. You are surely a computer whiz! That rendering looks almost MORE
real than real. Very impressive.
Great data on the blown domes. Are you still adding the acrylic ring to
your sub? I wonder if a dome is needed if the ring is installed.
I finished the rear fairing FRP work last night and
it's ready for the final gel/color coat. I need to finish the front ballast
tank so I can finalize the front fairing. That glass work has taken a VERY
long time and turned out to be quite expensive. Still, I'm happy with the
result.
I'm thinking I might make a new scale model for the
convention, as my old one is with my grandsons and they don't want to give it
up. Sure would be nice to present my sub at this year's convention, but
looks like the Florida convention will be the target date for club
"show-and-tell."
Keep up the good work. That kind of data is priceless for the guys
planning/building a psub.
I'll get those pics and measurements to you soon.
Frank D.
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