I like you pics you would do well in Africa.I am waiting for my
Elliptical end for my hatch to be delivered in +- 2 weeks,but I have already
finished making all the viewports I was hoping to release the hold down device
at say 3meters below the surface on diving and pre resurfacing as part of
a compulsory check list I plan on using a slotted hinge system which
allows the hatch seal to mate flush with the hatch ring.Its a good idea to go
lighter with the hatch its the last place one needs allot of unnecessary weight
but as you can see I plan to use this weight to my advantage.
James seems to be considering saddle mbt's(nemo style) I have already
decided on going this way to minimize deck space and freedom of manipulator
operation. I was thinking of fitting bilge pumps to get max floatation on
surface the other thing is should I make the saddle mbt"s with fore and
aft compartments to prevent airlocks.I am also trying to modify a scuba 1st
stage regulator to deliver an higher pressure on its lp outlet to a max of
60bar to reduce my pressure on my air system because its easier and cheaper to
get high quality fittings in lower pressures.
Any thoughts will be appreatiated.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 3:26
AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original
KL-250 Blown Dome Specs
I appreciate that Glen,
Are you planning to use the stock K-350 hatch design, with no way
to open it from the outside? I've been working on a light hatch design, that
is very much like the ones on the S101 and Alicia subs Paul built. That have
three locking dogs rotated by a single shaft that can be opened from the
inside or out with no gears or threads, and will fit on a K-350.
That design could have one, two, or three small viewports in the
hatch. But I have another design that can be opened from the inside or out,
that has a rotary thru hull at the front of the hatch, that will make it
so you can rotate three dogs from the one thru hull. This allows me
to have a large viewport in the middle of the hatch. I was just going to go
ahead and use a basic flat viewport, instead of the conical
fustrom window specked in your plans. I'm not sure why George designed it
that way. My guess is that he wanted to try some thing new. The conical
fustroms are usually for much deeper diving then a K-350 goes.
You could say I like black powder rifles. ;}) I
prefer the really old school flintlocks. They can start a fire, if the area is
to crispy. I have brokered many thousands of birds from Africa. I
would very much enjoy seeing them in the wild.
Cheers,
Mudpuppy
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original KL-250 Blown Dome
Specs
Hi Brent
I just been looking at your cad drawings they are excellent well
done.
all the best
Glen SA
ps do you like black powder rifles I do there's its
great hunting in Africa with a musket.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 11:42
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original
KL-250 Blown Dome Specs
Thank you very much Frank. Some times when I think the
rendering looks really fuzzy and bad, I realize I've been steering at it to
long and my eyes are shot and it's 4 am. It can take hundreds of
adjustments to get it just the way you want it. Then you might notice some
odd thing that makes you have to start over. Sorta like seeing a Nike shoe
in a wild west movie. I was zooming in on a rendering done on a Uboat-Worx
boat the other day, and had to laugh when I saw a reflection on a part that
showed a type of .hdr file picture that I use in my rendering engine. So
very possibly they are using SolidWorks PhotoWorks rendering software
as well. So you can get a even better idea of what can be done on your
assembly. But unless I upgrade my CAD computer first I'll have to use just
the parts of the assembly that show on the outside, and then also that the
same thing in the interior renderings.
That gel coat will really clean your fairings up visually,
so you can really enjoy your hard work. Just tell your grandsons that they
can play with the real one while our gone, if they let you borrow the model.
;} I'll be adding some resin coats to the outer surface of my original
FRP MBT's today to fill in all the little bubble voids that are there
because no gel coat was used before they were formed in the molds. I had to
sand blast off the last gummy coat of paint that was applied to them so I
could sand them down to the surface I want. I'll then do some filler work,
then gel coat the whole works, sand, then coat again. Then I'll be making
molds off them, for those that want that type of original K-250 MBTs.
Then I'll make a set of parts in those to be used as the upper part of
the mold plugs for my new MBTs with the curved under, partly capped bottoms,
like on Persistence.
Yes I'm still planning to install a acrylic cylinder above the
existing conning tower. I'm still of two minds of how to attach it. Either
will work, but one is old school and stronger, while the other gives a much
better view and is much much lighter and easier to fab. The heavy one
is much like the bar type used on the S101, and the lighter one is using a
bonded on rim ring on top and the bottom, and no prison bars. I'm working on
assembly models of each configuration so I can better show the design and
get some solid feed back on them. I could put a domed hatch above the
acrylic cylinder section. But I don't need it for the head room and I'll get
a much more accurate view with a 3 inch thick flat window as the main part
of the hatch. I'm having trouble making my original ideas for a hatch that
can be opened from inside or out work with such a large window hatch, with
no metal to speak of in it. So I might have to go back to the metal one I
had worked out with a large window in the center, and a three dog locking
means that operates on a single lever from inside or out.
The other issue was I wanted a large valve in the hatch for
letting out the remaining air in the sub after flooding it during a wet exit
exercise or the real thing. With the metal hatch that's an easy
configuration to make. But for the almost all acrylic hatch, I wasn't seeing
how to work it out, without adding a short steal collar cylinder section
above the acrylic cylinder. But I think Alec might have the solution with
using the bungee cord attached to the hatch.
Cheers,
Brent
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original KL-250 Blown Dome
Specs
Brent. You are surely a computer whiz! That rendering looks almost MORE
real than real. Very impressive.
Great data on the blown domes. Are you still adding the acrylic ring to
your sub? I wonder if a dome is needed if the ring is installed.
I finished the rear fairing FRP work last night and
it's ready for the final gel/color coat. I need to finish the front ballast
tank so I can finalize the front fairing. That glass work has taken a VERY
long time and turned out to be quite expensive. Still, I'm happy with the
result.
I'm thinking I might make a new scale model for the
convention, as my old one is with my grandsons and they don't want to give
it up. Sure would be nice to present my sub at this year's convention,
but looks like the Florida convention will be the target date for club
"show-and-tell."
Keep up the good work. That kind of data is priceless for the guys
planning/building a psub.
I'll get those pics and measurements to you soon.
Frank D.
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