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Well have to try that moly anti-seize. Nothing like
the smell of burn moly grease in the morning coffee, ah.
The other thing that comes to mind is to coat the
threads with diatomaceous earth powder. It can take the heat and I
tested some on a nut and bolt threads, and it coats pretty good. I'll have
to take some cheaper fittings and weld on them to find out what works
best.
Cheers,
Brent
From: Jay K. Jeffries
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 6:27 PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Coupling Thru Hulls Had to use molybdenum anti-seize
this afternoon. It was mil issue and the label was in poor shape as the
can is almost empty. Did note that it had a maximum temperature of
575° F. (label was deteriorated in the area and this is what
I am guess was after the noted temperature) but we used similar on nuclear
components on the sub at greater temperatures. R/J2
Resepectfully, Jay K.
Jeffries Andros
Is., Bahamas Save the whales,
collect the whole set. From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Brent
Hartwig Hey
Frank, The Thread-O-Lets are tough. Cliff used them on his R300. I've found
them in 316 SS now, like the ones linked below. The
most common couplings we use here at the SS tank manufacturing company are half
couplings, with just a set of threads on the outside of the tank. You
might find it interesting to know we are going to build a 60" OD by 16' long SS
tank with 2 to 1 heads, for a client here shortly. The welding robot will be
really slick for that tank. My friend that owns the shop is planning on
building a welding robot that can weld both the heads on a tank at the
same time.
" I was married
by a judge. I should have asked for a jury. " - Groucho Marx Regards, Brent |