| 
 Hi Guys... 
Interesting Ideas with the Pedal system for operating the Rudder while 
submerged, I have been working thru this myself with my 
design. 
I also would 
like Pedals to steer to keep my hands free for dive planes, thrusters and Valves 
operation. 
  
So I looked 
at your system and seeing as I have used something similar on a boat where a 
Tiller was used to drive a rudder that was no longer situated directly below we 
put in a Hydraulic linkage similar to what your showing. Even with oversized 
hoses we had to extend the tiller to overcome the resistance.... Although Legs 
are stronger and your sub is not a 35foot wooden boat... 
  
So I looked 
at your design and it dawned on me what I think I will do... I like using off 
the shelf stuff that can be modified as it is always cheaper, I would use a 
single slave ram on the rudder just like are used on many 
outboards and used on rudders on larger boats with inboard motors, many of 
these are sealed and would be fine working at even 100mSW I am told. (You could 
also use 2 smaller rams for redundancy). 
Use an off 
the shelf boat Hydraulic steering wheel (These can be High or Low pressure) 
add into this an AutoPilot pump. Direct to this pump you can use 
Electrical Buttons at your feet instead of pedals to move the rudder left 
or right as well as being able to put a small steering wheel at your dive 
controls as well as another wheel (And buttons/joystick) at your surface 
controls... Another plus is if you like you can also install an autopilot to 
steer your Sub on an even course.. (just make sure that the compass is 
calibrated properly with all the steel around.. 
  
Just sharing 
my Ideas... 
  
  
  
  
  
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       Dean 
      Cropp 
      News 
      Cameraman 
      Underwater 
      Camera Specialist   
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  Hi David, 
    
  While I am using mechanical linkage, I am also trying to 
  simplify steering operations and have chosen to use a stick arrangement 
  similar to older planes. The left/right moves the rudder/rear thruster and the 
  forward back movement actuates the front dive planes/thrusters. 
    
  I preferedthe wheel arrangement originally, but space 
  was a problem as two people would need to climb past it when boarding. My 
  stick will be located just to the right of my seat and will be long enough to 
  be operated from both the lower seated position as well as when standing in 
  the hatchway. 
    
  Best of all the arrangement can also work as well 
  with hydraulic actuaters. 
    
  Just another thought. 
    
  Best Regards, 
    
  Jim K  
  Besto lbmover  dt 
  
    ----- Original Message -----  
    
    
    Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 4:52 
    PM 
    Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hydraulic 
    Steering 
    
     I would be very interested in this set up as it 
    is exactly as I would like to have aboard my boat...The real deal used a 
    handwheel on a pivotong mount. As you said, you control the rudder with left 
    right turning of the wheel, and the dive planes by pushing or pulling on the 
    entire pivot mount.      Another area I wish to 
    replicate with the real thing is the Main ballast tank vent valve. It is 
    circular and is drawn down or into the ballast tank with hydraulics or as my 
    application a mechanical screwing action, then allowing air to escape 
    around a circular rubber lined opening. When on the surface, air pressure 
    within the tank helps keep this well sealed. Diving is much faster than with 
    a ball type air 
    valve.                                                                                
    David Bartsch
 
  
    
       
      From: ShellyDalg@aol.com Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 12:25:59 
      -0400 Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hydraulic Steering To: 
      personal_submersibles@psubs.org
  
      
      Hi David. Thanks. I will see if I can pick up some small 
      cylinders and build a bench model to see what it takes to make it work. I 
      would like to use this on the dive planes as well. That would 
      probably mean using double acting cylinders. Jim K. brought this up a 
      while back. 
       With reversible motors ( thrusters ) it shouldn't be a problem 
      with dive plane angle. If the dive plane got stuck in the dive position 
      because of seaweed or something, I can reverse the motors. In the 
      event of a rupture or blown seal ( not likely due to the low pressure 
      of the system ) where I lose the ability to push the dive plane, it 
      has a fail safe so the dive plane goes to vertical. The motor mount is 
      heavy on the back end and will also have a spring return. Once the 
      motor/dive plane fails in vertical, a little juice to the motor, and 
      up we go. 
      I don't show it on the sketch, but all the thru-hulls ( electric, 
      hydraulic, or air ) have an isolation valve directly on the welded nipple 
      going through the hull. In this way, I can set the dive plane angle and 
      close the isolation valve to hold the dive plane in that position. If 
      there's a little leakage and the dive plane starts to go back to vertical, 
      a little stroke on the pedal will push it back down. Like I said, I'll 
      have to build a bench system and see what valves etc. it takes to make it 
      work. 
      It would be possible to set this all up on a lever where you could 
      push it forward or back to operate the dive planes, and left or right to 
      operate the rudders, all with just one stick. Kind of like the control 
      stick on a helicopter or maybe closer to the wheel on an air 
      plane.  
      I can still steer the sub on the surface while standing up with my 
      head sticking out of the hatch by using the joysticks for the side 
      thrusters which will be located in a movable control box connected via 
      cables to the motor bus bar.. I have a sketch of that set-up that was on 
      my frappr page a while back. It's very simple and the parts are easy to 
      replace with off-the-shelf stuff, and inexpensive enough to carry spare 
      parts so a dive day needn't be lost due to some small part failure. 
      I'll keep you guys posted on any progress I make. Frank 
      D. 
 
  
        
     
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