----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 2:49
AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hard /
soft ballast tanks.
Hi Myles.
Hard ballast and soft ballast have nothing to
do with hardness. Here's an article that may explain it to
you.....
When a submarine is on the surface, its "soft" ballast tanks are full
of air. These tanks are mounted high along each side of the hull, and are
open to the sea at the bottom. Air is forced through valves at the top of
the tanks, which displaces sea water and gives the submarine its surface
stability and a minimum of 30" of freeboard between the water line and the
top of the hatch combing. When the pilot is prepared to dive the
submarine, he actuates exhaust valves in the top of the tanks which vent
the air and allow the sea water to fill the tanks again.
Differential ballast is provided by
the "hard" ballast tanks which
are designed to allow the submarine to achieve weightlessness or "neutral
buoyancy" when it's submerged. The hard tanks must be
filled with sea water if the submarine has just a few passengers, and they
are empty if the vehicle is fully loaded. Water can be pumped back and
forth between the bow hard tanks and the
stern hard tanks to
adjust the trim of the vessel. Some vessels also have a trim weight
beneath the pressure hull that can be moved back and forth on a track to
provide pitch trim.
Safety
Contemporary tourist submarines have a perfect safety record, having
carried in excess of 7 million passengers without a single serious injury
or fatality. Much of the credit for that safety record goes to the
American Bureau of Shipping, an organization that "classifies" marine
vessels. The ABS approves the submarine design and engineering, insures
the safety of the materials used during construction, tests and inspects
the various submarine systems, and attends the vessel's sea trials.
Ongoing annual inspections are also required.
In American waters the United States Coast Guard duplicates much of the
work done by the ABS, and also stipulates requirements for the experience
levels and licensing of the submersible crew, insures the existence of
adequate documentation, and enforces compliance with a substantial body of
safety regulations.
In the event of an emergency, the pilot, who is in contact with the
surface by underwater telephone, may employ a number of safety features.
The submarine has an automated Halon fire extinguishing system, and each
passenger has a closed system rebreather for use in case of a fire that is
capable of providing oxygen for a minimum of two hours. An emergency
ascent can be accomplished by 1) blowing high pressure air into the soft tanks, 2)
dropping an emergency drop weight composed of several tons of lead ballast, 3) blowing
the hard ballast tanks full of
air, and 4) using the electric vertical thrusters. As an additional aid to
safety, no tourist submarine may operate in waters deeper than its maximum
design depth, typically between 150' and 328'.
You are correct Myles about the ballast tanks
being as ambient when flooded or blown. One thing you can do is have the
bottom of your ballast tanks open so the air can spill
out
if you overblow them like in the kittridge
K350 sub. Some guys fill in the bottoms almost all the way but leave a
hole for excess air to spill out. That way they don't "burp"
as
much from air spilling out of them when you
don't want it to like in choppy water. Remember, the air always goes up.
So you can put an overpressure valve in your tank to
vent the excess air or you can just make a
hole in the bottom. Does the same thing except the hole can't fail on you
like the valve can. Also you could use a sliding weight
under your keel in place of or along with
hard ballast tanks. For instance, you could use a long piece of stainless
steel threaded rod. Then attach a weight to it so that when
you crank the rod it moves the weight back
and forth under the sub for trimming it out. I have been thinking of
making something like this for my wetsub instead of using hard trim
tanks,
but I haven't made up my mind on that yet. I
would suggest for your ambient design having both so in an emergency you
have extra tanks to blow if needed. In my wetsub it is not as
critical because I can easily bail or use my
personal Buoyancy control device (BCD) for extra lift if necessary.
Hope this helped you.
Bill.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2005 8:36
PM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hard /
soft ballast tanks.
Gents,
Hard / soft ballast
tanks....what exactly are we talking about here ? Hard ones made
of...hard material and soft ones made of inflatable bags or something
?
In contemplating my design for
the fore and aft main ballast tanks, it occured to me that the
construction of these tanks does not have to be up to the same standard
as the pressure hull, even if purged at depth, due to the fact that the
forcing of air into the tanks to purge the water creates an "ambient"
enviroment within the tank, equalizing the pressures put upon it.
Is my line of thinking correct ? In other words, as far as the
ballast tanks are concerned, it shouldn't matter if the internal
and external pressures are equal due to the tank being filled with
water, or compressed air. As long as your high pressure air supply
has enough psi to force the water out, it should be possible to blow the
tanks at any depth. Again, am I on the right track with this
thinking ? One of the reasons I am enquiring about this is I am
wondering if it's possible to use fore/aft main ballast tanks as trim
tanks as well ? For eg. if I'm at a depth of 50M in my 1ATM sub
(with fore/aft tanks filled with water), and I discover that my trim
isn't quite right, that I require a little lift in the front, can I put
a little air into the fore main ballast tank, or will this damage the
tank since the construction of it is quite light. I suppose if it
is possible to blow the tanks at any depth, you would want some sort of
check valve to bleed off the excess pressure that would occur from
surfacing, or risk blowing your ballast tanks up, sinking, and
dying.
Myles.