Hi Trent.
Thanks very much for that info. When I construct
the relay pod, I will make sure I suspend the relay inside the pvc pipe in such
a way that it does not
contact the pvc pipe walls. I understand what you
mean about the heat being contained in a very small area. I appreciate the your
helpful advice.
Bill.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 1:52
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 12 Volt
Solenoids
Hi Bill, Based on the relay I have been using, I don't think
the heat will be an issue when enclosed in a PVC pipe. If I hold my hand 1/8
of an inch away from the relay, I feel no heat. It is only on contact with the
metal shell that the heat can be felt. While it is quite hot, the heat is
contained in a very small area. My relay is bolted to a piece of plywood and
the wood does not even get warm, so a PVC pipe containing the relay and then
submerged in water should have no problem disapating the small amount of heat
generated. I just wouldn't have any loose wiring near the relay that could
contact the hot metal relay housing.
That's my opinion, although a test
is probably in order to be sure.
Trent
On Oct 21, 2005, at
12:27 AM, Akins wrote:
Hi Trent./smaller>/fontfamily> Thanks
for welcoming me back./smaller>/fontfamily> Thanks
very much for your information on continuous duty relays. I do have one
question about the heat you mentioned they generate. Would the 130 degree F
heat you mentioned they generate be a problem and possibly be able/smaller>/fontfamily> to
warp or melt the pvc pipe enclosure I planned to put them in? If it would, I
might need to think of using steel pipe instead of pvc. What do you think?/smaller>/fontfamily> Bill./smaller>/fontfamily>
----- Original
Message -----/x-tad-bigger>/fontfamily> From:/x-tad-bigger>/fontfamily>
/x-tad-bigger>Trent
McNelly/x-tad-bigger>/color> /x-tad-bigger>/fontfamily> To:/x-tad-bigger>/fontfamily>
/x-tad-bigger>personal_submersibles@psubs.org/x-tad-bigger>/color>
/x-tad-bigger>/fontfamily> Sent:/x-tad-bigger>/fontfamily>
Thursday, October 20, 2005 1:59 PM/x-tad-bigger>/fontfamily> Subject:/x-tad-bigger>/fontfamily>
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 12 Volt
Solenoids/x-tad-bigger>/fontfamily>
I have some experience with
these types of relays and here is one thing to be sure to check. There are
two types of solenoid relays, continuous duty and non continuous duty. The
continuous duty type is what you want. They are rated for use for long
periods of time. They also get quite hot when in use, too hot to touch for
more than a couple of seconds, so probably something like 130 degrees F. I
use these in my work and have one rated at 150 amps that I have had in
almost constant use for the past 3 years, and it does a great
job.
Good luck, glad to be hearing from you again Bill. Trent
McNelly Anchorage, AK
On Oct 19, 2005, at 6:55 PM, Dan H.
wrote:
Bill, The main difference in a 12 volt solenoid
and a 24 volt solenoid is the voltage it takes to operate the
coil. The coil has to be operated with the proper voltage.
The contacts of the relay are more current sensitive then voltage
sensitive. As long as your relay current rating is as high or
higher then the current (amps) draw of your motor, use it. I
assume your talking about the can type solenoids like the auto industry
uses for car starters. Correct? If you send me
a pic of what you planning to do, I may be able to help you come up with
some wiring ideas. Dan H.
----- Original Message ----- From:
Akins To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Sent:
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:33 PM Subject: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] U505 gets historically correct paint.
Hi
Ray. I know what you mean. As a diver in Florida in our
mucky gulf, I've gotten used to the "Viz" as we call
visibility, being less than adequate. There are times I
have been unable to see beyond several feet because of the silty
muck. I agree with you that the phosphorescent paint
could help inside our subs. I also like John Gaertner's point about
the LED's and the low voltage light they give. The higher
end dive lights are all going to led's now. I think the best thing
would be to have both the phosphorescent paint and the
LED's. When it is time to paint my wetsub, I might opt for
phosphorescent yellow paint so it could be seen better
underwater. Speaking of my wetsub, I am still hoping to get advice on
how to hook up my dash switches to the solenoid and then
to the batteries. Not sure if I can use a 12 volt solenoid for the 24
volt motor or not. Still need help in figuring out how to
hook it all up now that I've mounted the motor. Anyone have
advice? Bill.
----- Original Message ----- From: Ray
Keefer To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Sent:
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 1:33 PM Subject: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] U505 gets historically correct paint.
Hi
Bill,
The bit about "phosphorescent coat" got me
thinking.
Critical knobs and switches in our PSUB'S
could benifit from such a coating. I found out during
my submersible pilot training it can get unexpectedly dark.
Surprising how dark it gets driving into muck stirred off the
bottom. Even at only 15 feet down!
Regards, Ray
---
Akins <lakins1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
> U505 gets
the historically correct paint inside and > out. Wooden
decking gets correct preservative also. >
Bill. > > http://www.nace.org/nace/content/library/articles/features/uboat.asp
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