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Hi Andy.
Thanks for that info. But did you completely encase
the LED "bulb" section inside the acrylic?
What I am trying to figure out is...did you leave
the bulb section just peeking outside of the acrylic so it would be
cooled by the water while the rest of the LED
wiring was encased in acrylic, or did you TOTALLY encase
the whole thing, "bulb" and all submerged under the
acrylic? I was wondering how you did it and if you had thought
about just leaving the very end of the sealed
"bulb" of the LED just peeking out of the acrylic so it would be in
contact
with the water and be cooled while the rest of the
LED wiring was encased inside the acrylic and protected from the
water.
I am envisioning a mold with the LED held in the
mold by some means whereby the very tip of the LED bulb would just
barely extend outside of the level of the poured
acrylic and since the "bulb" section of the acrylic is already sealed it
would
be protected from the water while still being
cooled by it.
Bill.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 2:14
PM
Subject: Re: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior
low level lighting
I just made a mold placed the led and resistor wire
connector filled it in with acrylic resin next day pulled out of the mold
cleaned it up. And a way it went.
I am unsure what kind acrylic it
was other then clear. I thing he got it from the UW?s biology
department.
As for temp I believe normal usable range is -20 to 150
degrees F for most leds
I wanted to try it with 7 segment(number
displays) but i haven?t had the time but cant see why that would not
work either.
Andy
From: "Akins" <lakins1@tampabay.rr.com>
Date:
2005/10/21 Fri AM 03:31:37 CDT
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Subject:
Re: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level lighting
Hi
Andy.
Thanks for the info on your potted LED's. Do your led's require
mineral oil to fill in some kind of voids and for cooling?
Or did you
just pot them right into the acrylic covering both the two connection wires
going into the led's and did you pot
the led bulb part itself so it was
completely encased in the acrylic?
Bill.
-----
Original Message -----
From: drewacard@charter.net
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level lighting
I have potted
led in 2 part acrylic for a friends salt water wave tank.
by the
way led's are a current driven device you can run them off line voltage with
the correct resistor.
Andy
From: "Brian Cox"
<ojaivalleybeefarm@dslextreme.com>
Date: 2005/10/20 Thu AM 08:56:38 CDT
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level lighting
Bill,
I have a friend who is making exterior LED's for underwater
illumination using mineral oil to fill the voids and also as a
coolent
to cool the LED's that produce too much heat ( when the
LED's are pushed
with too much voltage they heat up).
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: Akins
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 03:00
Subject: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level lighting
I
wonder if LED's could be rigged for submergence on the dash of my
wetsub? I like John's idea for insuring seeing his switches in total
darkness.
In the murky water that would be a
definate benifit for me in the
wetsub. Being able to see the led
light next to my switches would aid in
making
sure
I used the correct ones when in extremely low
viz situations. Of
course in that viz case, it would be time to
terminate the dive due to
low viz, but
DURING
the dive before it was terminated for low
viz, it could be a real
help. Any
ideas?
Bill.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick and
Marcia
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 11:59 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior low level
lighting
Interesting thread. I
think I'll be sure to bring my forehead
mounted trilight: It has red
LED's for preserving night vision. A
little off the cuff but
this thread got me thinking.
Rick
Lucertini
Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior
low level lighting
>
Ray,
>
> I am planning on using LED lighting throughout my sub's
interior.
You can purchase ones that are very powerful but only draw
very little
current. And because LED's are tough as nails there is
little or no
chance of them getting damaged or burning out from
vibration, getting
wet or such.
>
> There are super bright LED's now
that produce 16K candle power,
run on only 3.4 V and draw about 200
mA a piece. I've already built a
separate little regulated power
supply to run them for my project.
>
> Also, I am planning to have all of
my switches and gauges LED lit
to insure that I can see them in
total darkness.
>
>
John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Ray Keefer <psubs2001@yahoo.com>
> Sent: Oct 19, 2005 1:33 PM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] U505 gets historically
correct
paint.
>
> Hi
Bill,
>
> The bit about "phosphorescent coat" got me
thinking.
>
> Critical knobs and switches in our
PSUB'S could
> benifit from such a
coating. I found out during my
>
submersible pilot training it can get
unexpectedly
> dark. Surprising how dark
it gets driving into muck
> stirred off
the bottom. Even at only 15 feet down!
>
>
Regards,
>
Ray
>
>
>
>
>
>
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