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Hi Trent.
Thanks for welcoming me back.
Thanks very much for your information on continuous
duty relays. I do have one question about the heat you mentioned they generate.
Would the 130 degree F heat you mentioned they generate be a problem and
possibly be able
to warp or melt the pvc pipe enclosure I planned to
put them in? If it would, I might need to think of using steel pipe instead of
pvc. What do you think?
Bill.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 1:59
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 12 Volt
Solenoids
I have some experience with these types of relays and here is
one thing to be sure to check. There are two types of solenoid relays,
continuous duty and non continuous duty. The continuous duty type is what you
want. They are rated for use for long periods of time. They also get quite hot
when in use, too hot to touch for more than a couple of seconds, so probably
something like 130 degrees F. I use these in my work and have one rated at 150
amps that I have had in almost constant use for the past 3 years, and it does
a great job.
Good luck, glad to be hearing from you again
Bill.
Trent McNelly
Anchorage, AK
On Oct 19, 2005, at 6:55
PM, Dan H. wrote:
Bill,
The
main difference in a 12 volt solenoid and a 24 volt solenoid is the voltage
it takes to operate the coil. The coil has to be operated with the
proper voltage. The contacts of the relay are more current sensitive
then voltage sensitive. As long as your relay current rating is
as high or higher then the current (amps) draw of your motor, use it.
I assume your talking about the can type solenoids like the auto industry
uses for car starters.
Correct?
If
you send me a pic of what you planning to do, I may be able to help you come
up with some wiring ideas.
Dan
H.
----- Original
Message -----
From:
Akins
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent:
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:33 PM
Subject:
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] U505 gets historically correct paint.
Hi
Ray.
I
know what you mean. As a diver in Florida in our mucky gulf, I've gotten
used to the "Viz" as we call
visibility,
being
less than adequate. There are times I have been unable to see beyond
several feet because of the silty
muck.
I
agree with you that the phosphorescent paint could help inside our subs. I
also like John Gaertner's point about the
LED's
and
the low voltage light they give. The higher end dive lights are all going
to led's now. I think the best thing would be to have
both
the phosphorescent paint and the LED's. When it is time to paint my
wetsub, I might opt for phosphorescent yellow paint
so
it could be seen better underwater. Speaking of my wetsub, I am still
hoping to get advice on how to hook up my dash switches
to
the solenoid and then to the batteries. Not sure if I can use a 12 volt
solenoid for the 24 volt motor or not. Still need help in figuring
out
how to hook it all up now that I've mounted the motor. Anyone have advice?
Bill.
----- Original
Message -----
From:
Ray Keefer
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent:
Wednesday, October 19, 2005 1:33 PM
Subject:
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] U505 gets historically correct paint.
Hi Bill,
The bit
about "phosphorescent coat" got me thinking.
Critical knobs and
switches in our PSUB'S could
benifit from such a coating. I found out
during my
submersible pilot training it can get unexpectedly
dark.
Surprising how dark it gets driving into muck
stirred off the bottom.
Even at only 15 feet down!
Regards,
Ray
--- Akins <lakins1@tampabay.rr.com>
wrote:
> U505 gets the historically correct paint inside
and
> out. Wooden decking gets correct preservative also.
>
Bill.
>
>
http://www.nace.org/nace/content/library/articles/features/uboat.asp
__________________________________
Yahoo!
Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
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