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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 12 Volt Solenoids



Hi Trent.
 
Thanks for welcoming me back.
 
Thanks very much for your information on continuous duty relays. I do have one question about the heat you mentioned they generate. Would the 130 degree F heat you mentioned they generate be a problem and possibly be able
 
to warp or melt the pvc pipe enclosure I planned to put them in? If it would, I might need to think of using steel pipe instead of pvc. What do you think?
 
Bill.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2005 1:59 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] 12 Volt Solenoids

I have some experience with these types of relays and here is one thing to be sure to check. There are two types of solenoid relays, continuous duty and non continuous duty. The continuous duty type is what you want. They are rated for use for long periods of time. They also get quite hot when in use, too hot to touch for more than a couple of seconds, so probably something like 130 degrees F. I use these in my work and have one rated at 150 amps that I have had in almost constant use for the past 3 years, and it does a great job.

Good luck, glad to be hearing from you again Bill.
Trent McNelly
Anchorage, AK


On Oct 19, 2005, at 6:55 PM, Dan H. wrote:

Bill,
 
The main difference in a 12 volt solenoid and a 24 volt solenoid is the voltage it takes to operate the coil.  The coil has to be operated with the proper voltage.  The contacts of the relay are more current sensitive then voltage sensitive.  As long as your relay current rating is as high or higher then the current (amps) draw of your motor, use it.  I assume your talking about the can type solenoids like the auto industry uses for car starters.  Correct? 
 
If you send me a pic of what you planning to do, I may be able to help you come up with some wiring ideas.
 
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
From: Akins
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] U505 gets historically correct paint.

Hi Ray.
 
I know what you mean. As a diver in Florida in our mucky gulf, I've gotten used to the "Viz" as we call visibility,
 
being less than adequate. There are times I have been unable to see beyond several feet because of the silty muck.
 
I agree with you that the phosphorescent paint could help inside our subs. I also like John Gaertner's point about the LED's
 
and the low voltage light they give. The higher end dive lights are all going to led's now. I think the best thing would be to have
 
both the phosphorescent paint and the LED's. When it is time to paint my wetsub, I might opt for phosphorescent yellow paint
 
so it could be seen better underwater. Speaking of my wetsub, I am still hoping to get advice on how to hook up my dash switches
 
to the solenoid and then to the batteries. Not sure if I can use a 12 volt solenoid for the 24 volt motor or not. Still need help in figuring
 
out how to hook it all up now that I've mounted the motor. Anyone have advice?
 
Bill.
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Keefer
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] U505 gets historically correct paint.

Hi Bill,

The bit about "phosphorescent coat" got me thinking.

Critical knobs and switches in our PSUB'S could
benifit from such a coating. I found out during my
submersible pilot training it can get unexpectedly
dark. Surprising how dark it gets driving into muck
stirred off the bottom. Even at only 15 feet down!

Regards,
Ray

--- Akins <lakins1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

> U505 gets the historically correct paint inside and
> out. Wooden decking gets correct preservative also.
> Bill.
>
>
http://www.nace.org/nace/content/library/articles/features/uboat.asp





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