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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] paint recommendation?
Chlorinated rubber is recommended as a cheap but successful paint system for ferro-cement boats. More care must be taken when applying by brush (they can't really successfully be applied by spray), they require no undercoat just several coats of the same paint. and are equally protective over steel fittings as well as the bare ferro-cement. It will stand a hard rubbing and does not peel. I would opt for a good two part epoxy however one that was recommended for metal.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Post" <jeffpost@rawbw.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] paint recommendation?
>
> This is another un-epoxy. Lots of paints have tacked on the epoxy label, but
> they still don't have the properties of real epoxy: extreme durability, complete
> water proofness. I notice that when they talk about pools, they are offering a
> completely different product, a chlorinated rubber coating, which is a tradition
> pool paint.
>
> Regards,
> Jeff
>
>
> Quoting Alec Smyth <Asmyth@changepoint.com>:
>
> > Thanks guys. To completely confuse you all, the Home Depot paint is
> > labeled "1 part epoxy". Speaking of which, what d'you think of this one?
> >
> > http://www.armorpoxy.com/html/about.htm
> >
> > thanks again,
> >
> > Alec
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jeff Post [mailto:jeffpost@rawbw.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2003 10:59 AM
> > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] paint recommendation?
> >
> > Hi Alec,
> >
> > As Ian stated in another reply, the typical garage floor paint is
> > acrylic paint,
> > and while fine on most surfaces, is not recommended for surfaces that
> > may have
> > poisture coming through them (i.e. hydrostatic presure coming through
> > the
> > concrete.) (They aren't very good protection for metal either: too
> > permeable.)
> >
> > That being said, acrylics really aren't what you want for Solo. You
> > either want
> > an epoxy paint, or alternately a polyurethane paint. Expoxy is your most
> > suitable choice: polyurethanes are harder to apply and harder to touch
> > up.
> >
> > Note, there are true epoxy paints marketed for garage floors, and these
> > would be
> > suitable for your use. Be careful though, there are alot of acrylic
> > floor paints
> > that have an epoxy component, but they aren't true expoxies. Basically,
> > if the
> > paint you use doesn't have two components, then it isn't expoxy (or
> > polyurethane
> > for that matter).
> >
> > Regards,
> > Jeff
> >
> >
> > Quoting Alec Smyth <Asmyth@changepoint.com>:
> >
> > > This weekend I finished painting Solo inside and out with a product
> > > called Gluvit, per Harold Maynard's recommendation at the convention.
> > > This is an unusual base, essentially a thick epoxy glue that is
> > applied
> > > to the bare metal and remains flexible, compressing with the hull to
> > > avoid cracks or bubbles. I would not have thought of it, and didn't
> > even
> > > find in the paint isle. But the result looks terrific and feels bullet
> > > proof. Great tip - thanks Harold!
> > >
> > > Next is the surface coat. The main attribute I'm looking for is
> > abrasion
> > > and scuff protection, and ideally application with a roller. Scuff
> > > protection is far more important to me than a high quality gloss
> > finish,
> > > as the boat will constantly come on and off the shop dolly, trailer,
> > > etc.
> > >
> > > I thought I'd had a bright idea and that garage floor paint might be
> > the
> > > toughest thing around. However when I went to Home Depot and read the
> > > instructions on the can, it actually described it as "unsuitable for
> > > hydrostatic pressure" due to the formation of bubbles. You'd think
> > they
> > > knew some nut would come along and want to paint his submarine with
> > the
> > > stuff.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have a recommendation?
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Alec
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>