Thanks Dan, that's why I asked. Just seeing if a direction can be found. That answers my hull question, I figured it wouldn't be that easy or everyone would do it...
On Jan 25, 2011 5:22 PM, "Daniel D. Lance" <lanceind@gmail.com> wrote:
> For someone just starting out I would highly recommend building a K-250
> first. I would build and operate one of these for a few years before
> setting out to design your own.There is a LOT to learn ! Then of course
> are the logistics of launching and towing a sub to an appropriate dive
> site. Smaller is better. ( K-250 = approx.2200lbs , K-350=4300lbs )
> Bigger sub, bigger tow vehicle or tow boat. In Florida you can ramp
> launch a K-250 but not a K-350.
> As far as using a propane tank for a pressure hull , not even on a good
> day ! Look thru the archives we beat this thread to death at least once
> a year.
> Dan Lance
>
>
> On 1/25/2011 12:31 PM, Benjamin fritz wrote:
>> Hey guys,
>> I know that this has probably been addressed but I'm trying to figure
>> out the differences in the specs for replacing metal when putting in
>> the 'nozzle' known as the conning tower. I remember the RFC about the
>> 100% rule but wasn't familiar enough with the different rules and
>> theories to put in my $.02... Is there a 'cliff notes' that explains
>> the differences between the disparity with ABS vs. 100%?
>> Seperate topic: I'm starting to design my ballast system and was
>> wondering about the advantages of using flexible hose vs. ss tube.
>> Has anyone used hydraulic system hoses and valves for their ballast?
>> Should you use them?
>> Lastly, and most humerously... Those with K-boats or a similar sized
>> sub that you homebuilt: What did you use for your main hull? used
>> propane tank, had it fabricated...? I know that Cliff's R-300 was
>> scratch built...I also know he has a PhD, whereas I only have an AS
>> (read: not very experienced in mechanical fabrication...).
>> Thanks,
>> Ben Fritz
>
>
>
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