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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Design questions



For someone just starting out I would highly recommend building a K-250 first. I would build and operate one of these for a few years before setting out to design your own.There is a LOT to learn ! Then of course are the logistics of launching and towing a sub to an appropriate dive site. Smaller is better. ( K-250 = approx.2200lbs , K-350=4300lbs ) Bigger sub, bigger tow vehicle or tow boat. In Florida you can ramp launch a K-250 but not a K-350. As far as using a propane tank for a pressure hull , not even on a good day ! Look thru the archives we beat this thread to death at least once a year.
Dan Lance


On 1/25/2011 12:31 PM, Benjamin fritz wrote:
Hey guys,
I know that this has probably been addressed but I'm trying to figure out the differences in the specs for replacing metal when putting in the 'nozzle' known as the conning tower. I remember the RFC about the 100% rule but wasn't familiar enough with the different rules and theories to put in my $.02... Is there a 'cliff notes' that explains the differences between the disparity with ABS vs. 100%? Seperate topic: I'm starting to design my ballast system and was wondering about the advantages of using flexible hose vs. ss tube. Has anyone used hydraulic system hoses and valves for their ballast? Should you use them? Lastly, and most humerously... Those with K-boats or a similar sized sub that you homebuilt: What did you use for your main hull? used propane tank, had it fabricated...? I know that Cliff's R-300 was scratch built...I also know he has a PhD, whereas I only have an AS (read: not very experienced in mechanical fabrication...).
Thanks,
Ben Fritz



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