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It’s my understanding that Stainless Steel after machining
needs to be passivated. This process removes any free iron on the surface and
replaces it with chromium or nickel oxide. The process consists of soaking in an acid bath of primarily
nitric acid with some chromic acid. I have used this on a number of objects
used in the sea with positive results. Jim what acid did you use in an your passivation process?? Ken Martindale From:
owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of ShellyDalg@aol.com In a message dated 5/7/2010 6:45:34 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
jimrudholm@gmail.com writes:
This brings up a good point. When working with stainless, pieces
get embedded from tools. This is evident when using a wire wheel.......gotta
use a stainless wire wheel. It'll get crusty real quick. Heat control and
restoring a "worked part" back to clean solid SS is the only way to
minimize corrosion. For small parts like brackets it's best to use 316L-SS so
the cost is kept low. Larger pieces in 304 are OK but you must watch the seams,
welds, and breaks ( folds ) for any corrosion and clean it right up before it
gets to be a problem. Using ZINC sacrificial anodes helps a lot too. They will cut your
corrosion way down. Frank D. |