Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] stainless vs aluminum

[Jim Rudholm <jimrudholm@gmail.com>]

I used phosphoric acid, pretty common in our farming area and a
component in naval jelly.

Jim R.

On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 3:04 PM, Ken Martindale <wmartindale@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> It’s my understanding that Stainless Steel after machining needs to be
> passivated. This process removes any free iron on the surface and replaces
> it with chromium or nickel oxide.
>
>
>
> The process consists of soaking in an acid bath of primarily nitric acid
> with some chromic acid. I have used this on a number of objects used in the
> sea with positive results.
>
>
>
> Jim what acid did you use in an your passivation process??
>
>
>
> Ken Martindale
>
>
>
> From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of
> ShellyDalg@aol.com
> Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 4:08 PM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] stainless vs aluminum
>
>
>
> In a message dated 5/7/2010 6:45:34 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> jimrudholm@gmail.com writes:
>
> The first overnight outside and they had a thin rust film. The cure
> was to soak the parts in acid to remove embedded iron from steel tools
> including drills.
>
> This brings up a good point. When working with stainless, pieces get
> embedded from tools. This is evident when using a wire wheel.......gotta use
> a stainless wire wheel. It'll get crusty real quick. Heat control and
> restoring a "worked part" back to clean solid SS is the only way to minimize
> corrosion. For small parts like brackets it's best to use 316L-SS so the
> cost is kept low. Larger pieces in 304 are OK but you must watch the seams,
> welds, and breaks ( folds ) for any corrosion and clean it right up before
> it gets to be a problem.
>
> Using ZINC sacrificial anodes helps a lot too. They will cut your corrosion
> way down.
>
> Frank D.



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