Dean,
Thanks for the link.
Dan Lance
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 2/15/2010 10:28:32 PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lighting
A cheep lighting option I have used before underwater in filming situations where I want to mount a light I may not be able to retrieve are Automotive HID (or HMI) kits.. they are 12v or 24v, come in different light temps (Kelvin, 5600, 4200, 3800.) the Daylight colour works best underwater for eliminating back Scatter. they come in Kits with Ballast and Bulb for two lights. use about 50% the power of the halogen equivalent.
Hi Vance,
Thanks for that.
I'm just converting your figures to the equivalent watts required for LEDs using the below figures.
150w incandescent = 2,550 lumens or 17 lumens per watt
150w halogen = 3000 lumens or 20 lumens per watt
150w of Fluorescents = 9,000 lumens or 60 lumens per watt
150w of Compact Fluorescents = 10,500 lumens or 70 lumens per watt
150w Metal Halide = 13,500 lumens or 90 lumens per watt
150w High Pressure Sodium = 16,000 lumens or 107 lumens per watt
The LED light I was looking at was 60 lumens per watt, so your 500 watt at 17 lumens per watt
would equate to a 142 watt LED & the 250 watt would equate to a 71 watt in the super bright LED.
I hope that calculation sheds some light on the subject.
regards Alan
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2010 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lighting
My experience is with the older style lights. That said, we used a combination of 500 watt Snooper spotlighs and 250 watt general purpose lights with wide diffusers. The subs generally carried 2 pairs of each in the bow and another pair (or 2 for the longer subs) down each side so the pilot could see in all directions. Depending on water clarity, etc, the pilot and observer could use any of several combinations for best viewing or videoing.
Vance
-----Original Message----- From: Jay K. Jeffries <bottomgun@mindspring.com> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Sent: Sun, Feb 14, 2010 5:36 pm Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lighting
David,
To minimize the issue of back scatter from light systems, it is best to place the light(s) pointed at the area to be viewed and at a 45 degree angle in relation to the viewer (or camera). This will cut down on the light reflected back into the viewer?s or camera?s eye when there is suspended matter in the water.
The more light you have the better your viewing experience will be. Car light bulbs (PAR), dichromatic spots or projection lights put out a lot of light but have a large power drain, high intensity discharge (HID) put out a LOT of light for a much smaller power drain but are expensive and easily damaged, and the latest innovation just entering the market are ganged high intensity LED lights with a long life (and not a catastrophic failure as all the LEDs do not fail at the same time), even lower power consumption and the promise of eventually being very economical.
R/Jay
Its almost like considering fog lights on a car...too bright and you actually end up seeing worse in a thick fog!
I would be very interested in anyone's experienced response on this one.
David Bartsch
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