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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Condensation in a psub
If the cold surface of the steel wall of the sub was insulated, on the
inside, then perhaps no condensation would form on the wall and an
equalibruim could be reached inside the sub.
Brian
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org]On Behalf Of Jay K.
Jeffries
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 8:36 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Condensation in a psub
An individual transpires moisture through the skin that at rest doesn't
amount to a whole lot but quite a bit more through respiration.
Counterlungs on a rebreather can accumulate several cups of "goobers" over a
long dive.
R/Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of Jon Wallace
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 11:07 PM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Condensation in a psub
Here's another alternative which may be effective at flushing out high
moisture relatively quickly for those that operate in high humidity
environments. If you have a spare 80-100 cubic foot air-filled scuba tank,
simply let the contents empty into the cabin and displace the existing air
from the cabin through the open hatch, just before you dive. This would
also work for quickly changing the air in the cabin on the surface without
requiring any power for a fan for those that don't have life support and
come to the surface to refresh the air in the cabin. Probably not a habit
forming solution since it doesn't resolve humidity issues for lengthy dives,
but since air-fills are pretty cheap it would work in a "pinch".
DO NOT DO THIS IN A CLOSED CABIN...ie hatch closed
Jon
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Weare, NH 03281
603-529-1100
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