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 T.C. 
Regarding our publishing a set of predetermined 
calculations 
to assist on determining depth for a wide range of 
most common dimentions: 
It's not that simplistic. 
I gave you a link to a free calculator & 
mentioned the psubs ABS calculator on your first post. 
Most subs are made up of cylinders, cones & 
hemispherical shapes & have view ports of 
acrylic in various dimentions & types, each of 
those forms have differing resistance to pressure. 
Different subs will have a different confirurations 
of parts. So it would be irresponsible to say 
" If your sub is X long & Y wide of Z thickness 
it will crush at a certain depth." 
Regarding your comment that you need to adjust your 
expectation regarding the level of  
knowlege on this site;- for you to assess that 
there is a low level of knowlege on the site  
you would have to know that the advice you were 
getting was bad, & to determine that you 
would need to consider yourself smarter than those 
giving the advice, wich makes me wonder  
why you are still posting questions.  
I have been on this site just over a year & 
have been surprized at the level of knowlege here. 
There are managers of submersible manufacturing 
plants, marine engineers, a naval architect,  
marine surveyer,people who have served on 
submarines etc. 
Regards Alan 
  
  
  ----- Original Message -----  
  
  
  Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 10:44 
  AM 
  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello; 
  Design; Materials; Thanks 
  
  Jay,
  You make some excellent points.  I suppose 
  I've been a bit vague regarding the source of my inspiration and this 
  contrived obscurity has forced the group to "read my mind."  It's become 
  clear that I need to adjust my expectations regarding the level of knowledge 
  and organization to be found on this site.  I don't mean this to be 
  insulting, mind you.  
  It might be a more efficient process to 
  publish a predetermined set of depth calculations which fall within the range 
  of the most common dimensions. It would assist new designs from scratch, and 
  would help to refine those designs that need updating.  When the builder 
  has decided on what appears to be a chosen "template" he or she could adjust 
  the particulars as necessary, and with the help of a hull calculator.  
  Even the so-called newbie, after adjusting his/or specifications could 
  contribute something to the database of knowledge.  In all reality, most 
  small submersibles fall within a narrow range of specifications given desired 
  depth and operations.  What's the harm in using these specifications as a 
  template for developing designs?
  It's not that I want you to 
  guess my designs were based on proven models, it just seems that given 
  the expertise on this board, the soundness of such designs should be 
  obvious.  Again, I don't mean to be insulting.  I wrongly assumed 
  that some of the initial process had been standardized for the reasons of 
  efficiency - a sort of mathematical FAQ.  
  This might seem lame to 
  some, but in order to get a visual understanding of the relationship between 
  psi and depth, I entered a very simple equation y = X (15/33) + 1 into my 
  graphing calculator.  Perhaps some might think it pointless, but it helps 
  to me quickly see amount of compression resistance a material must meet at any 
  given depth.   A similar graph might be helpful for depth/thickness 
  ratios (assuming certain other criteria of the steel).  I'd like to write 
  one myself, but my C++ skills are very basic, and my graphing calculator isn't 
  that good!  
 
  I hear your arguments regarding the expense of my 
  proposed design.  Though, a 100' crush depth and 30 - 50' op depth was 
  the standard until just before WWII.  I do get that I have to shorten my 
  hull, and the diameter.  Most likley the stiffners would be 13" spacings 
  center to center (is that too many rings?) on a revised 8' hull (5' diameter 
  here?).   3/8ths has been historically used on vessels much longer 
  than this.  Of course, the depth was limited to around 100'.  
  
  As to building a replica, no.  I don't want to recreate, I want 
  to update.  But the dimensions of these proof-of-concept are 
  tantalizingly similar to our projects today.  
  Finally (a sigh of 
  collective relief), it seems in some ways we are recreating the wheel when 
  many of the early submarines tell us the thickness of material, distance of 
  stiffeners, and operational depth.  
  (perhaps an ambient design is 
  best?)
  -T
 
  
  On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 1:26 PM, Jay K. Jeffries  <bottomgun@mindspring.com> 
  wrote:
   
    
    
    TC, 
    We can’t seem to read your mind and 
    provide the answers you are looking for.  Normally after a newbie has 
    played with the calculator and found a combination of hull plate and 
    stiffeners that he thinks meets his needs, he then approaches the list and 
    enquires for opinions on his choices.  From your comments concerning 
    historic submersibles, it appears that you already have a design chosen and 
    we just haven’t been able to guess what it is.  Not knowing your 
    financial or educational background, I have politely tried to tell you 
    previously that a sub of the dimensions that you propose is going to be 
    quite expensive and troublesome to handle. 
      
    If you look at the technologies that 
    the drug runners use in their semi-submersibles, there isn’t a whole lot of 
    high tech that goes into their building.  What you propose if done in 
    wood and fiber glass would be a short stretch of their building capabilities 
    back in the swamps of Colombia.  A steel sub would take a lot more 
    investment in materials and technical capabilities on their part with 
    technical capabilities probably being the limiting factor. 
      
    Since we don’t know what your 
    stiffener spacing is, we can’t tell you whether ¼” or 3/8” steel would meet 
    your needs (it needs to be slightly thicker than the ideal thickness to 
    account for corrosion over the life of sub since it will most likely have to 
    remain in the water due to its size).  Shape has a lot to do with hull 
    thickness also, to make the calculation correctly plate theory has to be 
    used.  Or if no stiffeners, the calculator will tell you the thickness 
    of straight rolled metal.  You do not give us sufficient information to 
    give you advice…as someone else has told you, we are not here to design your 
    boat but will give you advice.  And be prepared “If they criticize your 
    design, it means they actually cared enough to think about what you 
    propose”, an interesting quote that I recently came across and paraphrased 
    here.  If you want to build a replica, do you want to use materials 
    similar to the original hull?  If a replica, which one?  
    Davids were not meant to dive, the Holland had a riveted hull, 
    can’t remember much of the particulars on Goubet but I seem to 
    remember that it wasn’t very functional (a quick check on the Web shows that 
    it could not maintain depth or course so was deemed a failure even though 
    supposedly the first electric submarine). 
      
    And yes some of us do look at the 
    designs of historical submersibles.  I have stood inside of Holland’s 
    Fenian Ram and have laid my hands on his drawings while at Electric 
    Boat along with reviewing the original drawings of my great-great uncle 
    Simon Lake for his Argonaut I & II, Explorer, and 
    mods to his Defender submersibles.  Most of these subs are 
    impractical as PSUBs let alone dangerous.  The Holland porpoised 
    all of the time and the Argonauts were meant to either operate on the 
    surface or on the bottom (100’ on a snorkel for great lengths of 
    time).  Please attend the upcoming conference in Vancouver where I will 
    be presenting a design review of the WW II German 2-man Seehund 
    submersible. 
    
      
      
    Resepectfully, 
    Jay K. 
    Jeffries 
    Andros Is., 
    Bahamas 
      
    Save 
    the whales, collect the whole set. 
      
      
       
    From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of 
    T.C. Craig Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 3:27 PM
    
    
    
    Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello; Design; Materials; 
    Thanks  
     
    
    
    
      
    Vance,
  I haven't been on this board a 
    week, and with a few warm exceptions, I've been condescended to, patronized, 
    and now accused by a complete and total stranger of running drugs.  
    
  1.  If I was high enough in any drug organization where I would 
    have to worry about moving tons of product, I can assure you, I 
    wouldn't need the wit nor consultation of internet-engineers.  
    
  It's safe to say that South American Drug Cartels are not lurking 
    the Psubs.org board in the hopes of gleaning clandestine information. 
    
  2.  As many people have pointed out to me, it costs a relative 
    pittance to increase the diving capabilities of any metallic one-atmosphere 
    submersible.  Therefore, why would any criminal institution forgo the 
    deeper "insurance" so as to lumber around shallow and more legally dangerous 
    waters when they have the resources to go to 400' ?  Indeed, why not go 
    cheaper with an ambient design?
 
  Frank,
  Thank you for the 
    exquisite explanation, and detailed information.  
  You're 
    assuming a lot about what I know about internal and external pressure.  
    For instance, I know that pressure is less like vice grips and ball-peen 
    hammers, and more like a gigantic blanket pressing uniformly across a hull. 
    Though, the analysis makes sense in the face of threats of collision.  
    There was never a mention of a lack of stiffeners. Furthermore,  I 
    got  5/16" from a  book on submersible torpedo boats from the 
    early 1900's, but now that I think about it, they were probably talking 
    about the fairings. Thicknesses of 3/8" and 1.5" are the most common.  
    
  Does everyone really think that I suddenly just decided to build a 
    submersible boat?
  How is it that none of you have seemed to catch the 
    fact that these dimension are almost identical to the original 
    Holland? Indeed, that would be quite the project @ 16.5 ton 
    displacement.Even my original 15' X 3.3' diameter is about the same as 
    The Goubet, with a dry weight of 3,196lbs. Though, these weights are 
    based on iron.  
  Has no one explored the history of early 1900 
    submersibles?  Many of these early designs are almost exact replicas of 
    the david/monitor boat I'm proposing now,  with depth limitations of 
    around 60' - though crush depths were around 100'.  I know the 
    concept will work as I'm standing on the shoulders of proven designs. What I 
    need to know is how to update the design for modern materials and methods, 
    and what to consider as feasible in terms of personal construction.  
    
  If this doesn't seem like a feasible design given the resources of 
    the average builder, why don't you just say so rather than having me 
    reinvent the wheel and call it "learning."  Why not say at the 
    outright,  "assuming you're not a rich man with lots of space, 
    submersibles beyond x # of feet and Ylbs of displacement are generally 
    unfeasible and cost prohibitive.  Might I suggest you keep your 
    displacement between x and x2, and y/y2 operational abilities?"  Do you 
    really believe that's, "doing the work for me?" 
  What if we all had 
    to learn to tie our shoes by first weaving the fabric on loom? "Sorry kid, I 
    had to do it too,"  strikes me as inefficient, elitist, and certainly 
    unlike any college courses I've ever taken - both CNC machining or any of 
    the Socratic arts.   
  Hull calculators are used when the 
    real designing begins, but I'm still trying to get basic dimensional 
    references here and am looking for you guys to narrow the broadnesses of 
    information.  
    
  -T
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
    
    On Sun, Sep 20, 2009 at 6:09 AM, <vbra676539@aol.com> wrote: 
    
    I don't want to nay-say anyone, but I'm not thrilled with the idea of 
    visits from HS or the DEA, either. Those folks have a vanishingly low sense 
    of humor about some things--and justifiably so.  
    
    Vance 
    
    
    
    Sent: Sun, Sep 20, 2009 9:00 am Subject: 
    Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello; Design; Materials; Thanks    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Thank 
    you. I was wondering when some one was going to say this.  
    
     
    
    
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
        
      
      
      
      Sent: 9/20/2009 8:34:47 AM   
      
      Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello; Design; Materials; 
      Thanks  
      
      
      What type of vehicle would benefit from a 
      low-profile, ultra-light, high-volume pressure hull? A throw-away cargo 
      vessel, perhaps? Hmmm. Its design to dive rarely and barely is evocative. 
      We have had some issues along the western coasts of Central and North 
      America with vessels of this type that were NOT designed to dive, and got 
      caught as a result. None of them were out there for 
      pleasure.  
      
      
      
      TC. The basic idea here 
      is.......Displacement determines overall weight. If you have a bubble big 
      enough to sit in, it takes X amount of weight to make it sink. You can 
      either use a thin walled pressure hull and strap on a bunch of lead, 
      worrying that you may accidentally reach crush depth and die, or you can 
      spend the same amount of money on a thicker hull, use less lead, and be 
      assured the crush depth is deep enough that you'd never approach 
      it.  
      
      The work involved is the 
      same. The overall weight is the same. The plumbing systems are the same. 
      the electrical systems are the same. Thinner ( cheaper) windows still puts 
      the crush depth too close.  
      
      There's really not much 
      sense in building for a shallow depth when the added cost is such a small 
      percentage of the total.  
      
      It's more logical to build 
      it strong, even if you never go past 60 feet.  
      
      A 5/16" hull without 
      stiffeners won't go anywhere near 60 feet without crushing. More like 18 
      feet and it buckles. Run some numbers through the calculators you've been 
      given.  
      
      Remember that a pressure 
      tank is designed to withstand internal pressure like propane. To 
      break the tank is to reach "burst" strength of the steel.  
      
      A pressure hull for a sub 
      must withstand external pressure. The steel doesn't "rip" or burst. 
      It merely has to bend in such a way as to make the tank collapse. 
        
      
      Imagine how easy it is to 
      bend a piece of steel just 5/16 inch thick. A pair of Vise grips will bend 
      it. A small ballpeen hammer will bend it. Smack it with a 2X4 and bend 
      it.  
      
      Steel is actually cheaper 
      by the pound than lead bricks. It's cheaper to use thicker steel than to 
      buy a bunch of lead to make the same size bubble sink.  
      
      
      -----------You've been 
      given good advice, and pointed in the right direction. Get some books, 
      learn a few basics, and I can assure you your new questions will be quite 
      different than the ones you've posted so far.-----------  
      
      
      It's fun to dream and we 
      encourage people to think outside the box, but we're pretty big on 
      safety around here. What we say, recommend, or suggest reflects on us as a 
      group, and the personal submarine sport as a whole. I may sound a little 
      overly conservative, but the last thing anyone needs is BAD advice when 
      we're talking about a potentially deadly activity like building your own 
      submarine.  
      
      Good luck in your quest. 
      It's a long term project and you may have taken your first steps. It's a 
      long road.   
            
           
  
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