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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello; Design; Materials; Thanks



Alan, 

Thank you for the effort regarding the fiberglass hull. I didn't mean to backhand your valuable information. Please don't think it's for naught. If it becomes apparent that my use of the sub will be in the bay/delta at 15' your information is most needed. Most likely I'll build a smaller ambient Fg first, for the experience. 

When you mention a small imcrease in thickness equates to large gains im strength, you're starting to speak my language.  I'm assuming that 5/16 will keep 3 atmospheres at bay. As an outsider, I have no frame of reference regarding thickness. In other words, 3/8" could hold till 600' for all I know.

Ultimalty, I'm looking to have the most fun, and for me that's gunkholing in shallow water. 

Feel me?

-T     

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 18, 2009, at 6:59 PM, "Alan James" <alanjames@xtra.co.nz> wrote:

Hi TC,
no it wasn't your statement I was refering to,we are a little more merciful than that to new people.
Hope I'm making sense to you. I spent quite a bit of time looking at the option of a fiberglass pressure hull.
Regards Alan
 
----- Original Message -----
From: T.C.
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello; Design; Materials; Thanks

I'm fairly certain I didn't make such statements regarding ambient hull strength  If I wasn't clear about what I meant, I apologize. 

 My point was to say that at shallower depths (1.5-3atm) , hull failure is less of a possibility than porthole/throughhull failure. Just like the scenerio you just mentioned, where the hull didn't fail, but the porthole did. 


Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 18, 2009, at 3:23 PM, "Alan James" <alanjames@xtra.co.nz> wrote:

I'll agree with that Ron,
I don't think you can make a carte blanche' statement that you don't have to worry about the hull
strength or view port strength of an ambient.
TCs proposed sub (his prefered option was 1atm) was 2.5-4 ft height.
At 4ft high there would be a pressure differance between top & bottom of 1.78psi, wich is 256 lb per
square ft. Granted the sub would probably be set up to pressurize at ambient pressure at the mid way point
between top & bottom, but this would be hard to maintain, depending on ascent / descent speeds & how
quickly the system could equalize.
Also if there was an angled ascent or descent the height distance between the top & bottom of TCs 25 ft
sub would be a lot more. At a 10 degree incline the pressure differance would roughly double from the
bottom of one end to the top of the other. If the view port popped out or broke you'd be history.
Regards Alan
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello; Design; Materials; Thanks

I would add that though there is little differential pressure across the hull of an ambient sub, the hull still requires great strength from the roof to the base. The sub's ballast is likely carried on the bottom of the sub, and the air inside the sub is lifting against the roof of the sub, in opposition to the ballast. The hull needs to be strong enough to withstand this stress. 
Ron


On 09-18-2009, at 1:33 PM, Jay K. Jeffries wrote:

TC,
Some people here are confused as an ambient sub does not need the hull strength of a 1-atm submersible.  For an ambient the pressure is equal on both sides of the hull.  In the past, most ambients have been constructed from fiber glassed wood while later commercial ambient hulls are usually GRP (glass-reinforced plastic, i.e. fiber glass).  While there is much to be learned in Stachiw’s book on viewports, this is overkill once again for ambients as there is not much (if any) pressure across the viewports.  Due to minimal pressure differentials across the hull surfaces, an ambient sub can be configured in just about any shape that you might want since it does not have to be extra strong to resist the pressure at depth.  Ambient subs are not worried about crush depth but are concerned with decompression issues for the occupants and pressure trauma from rapid or deep pressure transients.  As Ray noted, the volume of pressurized air that needs to be carried to maintain ambient air spaces within one of these hulls can be excessive.  There are some articles in old Popular Mechanics or Popular Science magazines from the 60s and 70s that have plans for ambient subs and these will give you an idea as to what is involved in making a successful ambient sub.  You may find copies of these articles of the web for free.  Do note that a pressure housing will be necessary for a battery compartment and your motors.  Also depending on your design, you may need shaft seals for your propulsion and maneuvering motors.
There has been so much focus here on 1-atms. subs here on the PSUB site that we forget some of the engineering features of an ambient sub.
R/Jay
Resepectfully,
Jay K. Jeffries
Andros Is., Bahamas
Save the whales, collect the whole set.
----- Original Message -----
From: T.C. Craig
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2009 7:20 PM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Hello; Design; Materials; Thanks

Dear Sirs;

First, let me say hello and thank you in advance for your time. 

I’m considering building a submersible with the following characteristics.

L: 25’

B: 6.5’

D: 2.5 - 4’

Operational depth 30’ – 50’

Brief dives to 60’

The vessel will conduct itself primarily in semi-submerged/ low-profile condition (aside from the conning tower stacks etc.), showing full freeboard only in harbor, or as dictated by necessity.  At the desire of the operator, the vessel can make brief, excursion dives up to the aforementioned depths. 

The exact depths are yet undecided. 

In other words, I’m looking to build a David-boat/Monitor type vessel capable of excursions to a designed depth, mostly 1.5 to 3 atmospheres with extended submerged endurance.  Early-early WWI submersibles were treated (and designed) as surface-craft with limited submersible capability.  I would like to mimic this design concept. 

The nature of these requirements clearly points to a dry-ambient submersible but I wish avoid the dry-ambient for the reasons of decompression.  Even at thirty feet, there are no-decomp limits, and I would like to avoid these issues if possible.  Although I’ve considered limiting dive depths to 20’, in which case ambient would make sense.

Materials:

Some pre/post-Victorian vessels were made of thick wooden planks, metal sheathing, riveted construction, and included deadlights and scuttle-glass portholes.  Many of these vessels were capable of greater depths than I am now proposing.  What are some today’s hull materials that could give me the same performance more cheaply?

Why not consider steel/fiber/carbon/etc. reinforced plastics, or wood, given the limited design parameters. Indeed 60 psig is large, but it seems a trifle to many of today’s resources.  Far older and more poorly designed submersibles dropped past 70’ with materials of lesser quality – and lived to tell the tale. 

Would it be folly to sink 5’ in a hull made of 3” wood? What about10 feet? or 25? At what depth does wood betray you to the abyss?

What about 5/16” steel? Would I  be called an engineering marvel for using 5/16” in a vessel designed to dive 5’ feet? 

Personally, I suspect that most industrial strength materials will bring you safely back from a depth of  <33’ – even those of mediocre design.  Informally, it appears that most shallow water (1.5 – 2 atm) accidents related to through-hull/porthole failure, as well as entanglement and swamped with decks awash.  Hull failure due to pressure buckling appears to be a rare event in shallow waters. I could be wrong, of course. 

Ultimately, I suppose I’m looking for design/hull-materials advice given the operational characteristics I’ve already mentioned. 

Thank you all for you time and I look forward to a response.

TC


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