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In a message dated 9/15/2009 10:20:07 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
vbra676539@aol.com writes:
After that, it's a waste of payload. Hi Vance. That makes sense. I was a little concerned how difficult it would
be to install/remove the drop weight mechanism if it was 750 lbs. I had designed
the release screw long enough to "grab" the weighted keel and suck it up to the
hull. With the rollers on the keel I can position it under the sub. I'm thinking
too much weight used as a drop weight just adds difficulty to that task, and a
lot of expense if I have to drop it and can't get it back later.
On the corrosion around the underfloor weights......I'm making contoured
pans from sheetmetal to fit into the various odd shaped pockets under the floor.
These pans will get lead poured into them and an indentation in the top for an
embedded handle. This will make it simple and convenient to pull the leaded pans
out of their pockets to dry out any condensation gathered there, and do any
touch-up painting when needed.
The pockets are formed by the stiffener plates making a kind of "grid"
pattern on the bottom of the hull interior. The floor plates will be bolted
down to keep the leaded pans in place. I sure don't want anything rolling around
loose inside.
I need a sliding weight inside because of the difference in my MBT sizes.
Submerged it balances good front-to-back but surfaced the larger MBT in the back
will push the nose down. The sliding weight will re-balance for surface level.
I'll find out just how much sliding weight is needed once all the components are
finished and I can actually weigh them.
So far, the front and back frame work matches pretty close. The rear
ballast tank is getting pretty heavy and should end up around 275 pounds. Rear
fairing is near 100 pounds, two motors with rudders at about 30 lbs. each. Add
the spare scuba tank, and rudder actuators for another 50 lbs. and then
balance the whole front assembly to match.
The tube steel frames have threaded ports in them so I can add weights as
needed for balance. Some will get Argon gas to keep them light but prevent
corrosion, some will be oil filled, and I may need to fill some with lead shot
and oil if I need more weight to balance front-to-back. I'm pretty sure the two
lower legs on the front will need that. The ballast tank and FRP fairing in the
front are lighter than the rear components. Total weight of front and rear
modules needs to match so it stays level when submerged.
I gotta take all these parts down to the scale once they're finished to get
accurate weights on them. Then I can adjust with the fill-up material.
Frank D.
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