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Hi Cody, This design was a lot of work, but I believe this design will be more effective at parting the urethane so you can get to the metal faster. ;} http://ibnyeq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pc8-rsSYYwZXTOIbzkzIYiXuSwPp94aHc8YRhkn4UHXq0EYH2x7T3cUZ28JNOFxhpO2WkWUHRHIA8PZSBDYAuPg/Cutting%20Thru%20All%20In%20Style.jpg "I like work: it fascinates me. I can sit and look at it for hours." ~ Jerome K. Jerome Cheers, Szybowski From: cody_mcmillan@hotmail.com To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] No Machining Hatch Sealing Concept Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 20:38:36 +0000 it is a very intresting idea, but as you get deeper and the pressure increases those ridges that are seating on the flat gasket are likely to just cut into it and fail. thats just what i think anyways. Cody McMillan Marine Engineer 6046573770 From: brenthartwig@hotmail.com Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] No Machining Hatch Sealing Concept Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 04:14:04 -0700 This is an idea I've been wanting to make some CAD models and drawings of for some time now. We have this big oval or rectangle steel plate doors for the hyperbaric chambers, and it's expensive to machine the doors and seating flanges flat, plus cut the O-ring groove. Even then the welded in door frame can and usually warps some. Once welded in the door frame is very hard to machine. The concept shown in the below pictures and drawings, is showing a K-350 type hatch and hatch land, that have two rolled 1/4" SS rod rings, that are TIG welded onto the hatch flange, and two on the hatch land. The two on the hatch land are to form a dam for Sekaflex, that you caulk in there and level off. Then to allow the upper SS rings to seat down into the Sekaflex enough to take up any warp in both flanges and not stick to the Sekaflex while it is curing, you apply mold release to the SS rings, and then spray them with PVA mold release agent and let that dry. Then before the Sekaflex is caulked into the lower rings, you lower the hatch and figure out what spacers you need to keep if from going down to far into the urethane. Then add the Sekaflex of the type of hardness you want, and lower the hatch, which is attached at the hinge to keep every thing lined up, and set the hatch down on your taped or clamped on spacers, and let it cure.
One could use just one upper SS sealing ring as you can see in the drawing of a large WWII ballast tank flapper valve. But I like the primary and secondary sealing means, and it evens out the stresses more.
" Stand still. The trees ahead and bush beside you are not lost." ~ Albert Einstein
Regards Szybowski Click less, mail more: Hotmail on the new MSN homepage! |
