Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original KL-250 Blown Dome Specs

Vance,

That would probably be a good idea, huh. I have a number of configurations in mind. At this point its a matter of SS bevel gears, vs. leverage motion. Rotating dogs vs. clamping dogs. I'll finish at least one config. and let you take a look at it, and we can go from there. I have a lot of reference material in this area. It's just a matter of blending together a few proven mechanical means with as many off the shelf parts as can be had.

Regards,
Szybowski

To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original KL-250 Blown Dome Specs
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 10:12:07 -0400
From: vbra676539@aol.com

Brent,

Are you going to publish some of that linkage and whatnot on the psubs page. I'd love to modify my hatch.

Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: Brent Hartwig <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Fri, Aug 21, 2009 8:26 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original KL-250 Blown Dome Specs

I appreciate that Glen,

Are you planning to use the stock K-350 hatch design, with no way to open it from the outside? I've been working on a light hatch design, that is very much like the ones on the S101 and Alicia subs Paul built. That have three locking dogs rotated by a single shaft that can be opened from the inside or out with no gears or threads, and will fit on a K-350.

That design could have one, two, or three small viewports in the hatch. But I have another design that can be opened from the inside or out, that has a rotary thru hull at the front of the hatch, that will make it so you can rotate three dogs from the one thru hull. This allows me to have a large viewport in the middle of the hatch. I was just going to go ahead and use a basic flat viewport, instead of the conical fustrom window specked in your plans. I'm not sure why George designed it that way. My guess is that he wanted to try some thing new. The conical fustroms are usually for much deeper diving then a K-350 goes.

You could say I like black powder rifles. ;}) I prefer the really old school flintlocks. They can start a fire, if the area is to crispy. I have brokered many thousands of birds from Africa. I would very much enjoy seeing them in the wild.

http://cid-5085d10eb6afe47c.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Rendezvous

Cheers,

Mudpuppy

From: glen brown

Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 1:08 AM

To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org

Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original KL-250 Blown Dome Specs

Hi Brent

I just been looking at your cad drawings they are excellent well done.

all the best

Glen SA

ps do you like black powder rifles I do there's its great hunting in Africa with a musket.

----- Original Message -----

From: Brent Hartwig

To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org

Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 11:42 PM

Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original KL-250 Blown Dome Specs

Thank you very much Frank. Some times when I think the rendering looks really fuzzy and bad, I realize I've been steering at it to long and my eyes are shot and it's 4 am. It can take hundreds of adjustments to get it just the way you want it. Then you might notice some odd thing that makes you have to start over. Sorta like seeing a Nike shoe in a wild west movie. I was zooming in on a rendering done on a Uboat-Worx boat the other day, and had to laugh when I saw a reflection on a part that showed a type of .hdr file picture that I use in my rendering engine. So very possibly they are using SolidWorks PhotoWorks rendering software as well. So you can get a even better idea of what can be done on your assembly. But unless I upgrade my CAD computer first I'll have to use just the parts of the assembly that show on the outside, and then also that the same thing in the interior renderings.

That gel coat will really clean your fairings up visually, so you can really enjoy your hard work. Just tell your grandsons that they can play with the real one while our gone, if they let you borrow the model. ;} I'll be adding some resin coats to the outer surface of my original FRP MBT's today to fill in all the little bubble voids that are there because no gel coat was used before they were formed in the molds. I had to sand blast off the last gummy coat of paint that was applied to them so I could sand them down to the surface I want. I'll then do some filler work, then gel coat the whole works, sand, then coat again. Then I'll be making molds off them, for those that want that type of original K-250 MBTs. Then I'll make a set of parts in those to be used as the upper part of the mold plugs for my new MBTs with the curved under, partly capped bottoms, like on Persistence.

Yes I'm still planning to install a acrylic cylinder above the existing conning tower. I'm still of two minds of how to attach it. Either will work, but one is old school and stronger, while the other gives a much better view and is much much lighter and easier to fab. The heavy one is much like the bar type used on the S101, and the lighter one is using a bonded on rim ring on top and the bottom, and no prison bars. I'm working on assembly models of each configuration so I can better show the design and get some solid feed back on them. I could put a domed hatch above the acrylic cylinder section. But I don't need it for the head room and I'll get a much more accurate view with a 3 inch thick flat window as the main part of the hatch. I'm having trouble making my original ideas for a hatch that can be opened from inside or out work with such a large window hatch, with no metal to speak of in it. So I might have to go back to the metal one I had work! ed out with a large window in the center, and a three dog locking means that operates on a single lever from inside or out.

The other issue was I wanted a large valve in the hatch for letting out the remaining air in the sub after flooding it during a wet exit exercise or the real thing. With the metal hatch that's an easy configuration to make. But for the almost all acrylic hatch, I wasn't seeing how to work it out, without adding a short steal collar cylinder section above the acrylic cylinder. But I think Alec might have the solution with using the bungee cord attached to the hatch.

Cheers,

Brent

From: ShellyDalg@aol.com

Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 10:21 AM

To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org

Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Original KL-250 Blown Dome Specs

Brent. You are surely a computer whiz! That rendering looks almost MORE real than real. Very impressive.

Great data on the blown domes. Are you still adding the acrylic ring to your sub? I wonder if a dome is needed if the ring is installed.

I finished the rear fairing FRP work last night and it's ready for the final gel/color coat. I need to finish the front ballast tank so I can finalize the front fairing. That glass work has taken a VERY long time and turned out to be quite expensive. Still, I'm happy with the result.

I'm thinking I might make a new scale model for the convention, as my old one is with my grandsons and they don't want to give it up. Sure would be nice to present my sub at this year's convention, but looks like the Florida convention will be the target date for club "show-and-tell."

Keep up the good work. That kind of data is priceless for the guys planning/building a psub.

I'll get those pics and measurements to you soon.

Frank D.

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