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[PSUBS-MAILIST] Wave Piercing Bow Options





Greetings Glen,

 I've not corresponded with you in a while.  I've been wishing I had a fully equipped shop to build all sorts of sub contraptions, and now I have it with my relative and his partners shop. So you must be careful what you wish for. Since now I'm up to my ears in training on all the equipment and finalizing CAD assembly models so I can have the specs I need to whip um up.

You've opened a big can of worms, and since many of us here like to feed the fish that's not a bad thing.  I wanted to have a wave piercing bow on my K-250 even before I owned it, and since I want to be able to tow it, and have it not be a sea anchor any more I'm planning on adding about 2.5' to the existing bow and make a whole new front weldment to hold the front MBT, be a crash guard and be able to attach every thing else.

I'm planning on using the original from MBT as a starter mold plug to make a new one that has a curved under bottom edge like how Dan did on Persistence.  I had even toyed with the idea of seeing if I could purchase one from Dan off his mold since we have the same hull diameter. But I suspected that his tank holds more then mine and that I would have to change the rear MBT as well to deal with that. Also since I want a short wave piercing bow I'll keep the same upper shape of the original from MBT, and add a free flooding upper front fairing that is wave piercing and can house some lights that might turn out to look like the lights on the Dodge Prowler.

I don't see an advantage of splitting the front MBT if I protect it from spilling air easily in the configuration Dan has figured out.  If you plan to have a front dome window that you can see upwards some like James has.  I've seen seen clear polycarbonate canoes that allow you to see the fish beneath you as you cruise.  So If you wanted you might be able to form or have formed for you a acrylic or polycarbonate front MBT.

As for me I've pondered many different configurations for cleaning up the lower front area of the sub hydro dynamically.  What I'm thinking of doing currently is to add three large pieces of polycarbonate that are 3/8" or 1/2" thick that are each curved on only one axis. One on each side and one on the bottom. this area would be free flooding of course and would be in a some what wave piercing configuration. All edges of the polycarbonate will be attached to FRP or SS flanges with Sekaflex, and then the said flanges will be bolted to the new front weldment that solidly supports all the flanges. This way I don't need to drill any holes in the polycarbonate, which is where I've been told most cracks start on boat wind shields and the like.

These lower front viewing fairings will be a little bit like the clear front fairing that was supposed to be on Alicia, and we can see on several of the luxury sub  concepts on US Submarines site, but mine are in three pieces and done without a compound curve to please the KISS principle fans. ;}

I am considering installing some syntactic foam in the the out most bow area to compensate for more weight added to the bow. But since I'm also adding some weight in the stern in the way of a additional rudder and two thruster, and the existing bow had about 40 lbs. of lead mounted in it, I shouldn't have to much trouble working it out.  I can see any changes to the CG an CB of my subs assembly model as I make changes.

If I add a mechanical arm to the bow I may need to add syntactic foam or a small pressure proof pod to balance things out. I have the same basic issue for when I add the outboard motor to the stern that has a small aluminum pressure hull over the engine.

In regards to the bottom of the sub, it will have a  flat plate between the skids that have two slots in it for the K-350 type twin drop weights to come out. The Bottom of the drop weights will be flush with said plate.  Then so that plate will not sit on the mud or sand on the bottom of a given water column, I'll add three to four inches of black UHMW to the steel skids. This will also give me more room to work under the sub.


 Regards,
Szybowski


  " A thinker sees his own actions as experiments and questions--as attempts to find out something. Success and failure are for him answers above all. " 

                                                                         ~ Nietzsche









From: glenbrown@vodamail.co.za
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options
Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 10:05:08 +0100

Hi Brent
I am also planning on using Min Kota 's on my K350 I am also thinking of splitting my front mbt for better view of my hydraulic manipulator you got any thoughts.
All the best
glen south Africa
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 12:23 AM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side Thruster Options



Greetings James,

I'm also planning on installing small mostly off the shelf thrusters on the sides of my K boat to reduce drag and simplify things.  I've been planning on using 36 volt Minn Kota 101 saltwater thrusters, like Frank, and I believe Vance are using and oil compensate them.  Last I checked those thruster were running $250 each with the speed controllers going for  $150 each. 

I'll have to check my notes, but I believe Karl Stanley is using 6 of the 36 volt Minn Kota saltwater thruster that he has oil compensated, and has used down to 2500 fsw.  Two for vertical thrust and four in the stern. Are you expecting to go that deep James. ;}

I like the idea of using the existing flexible shafts on some motors that Alec mentioned. I expected that I would clamp mine on in a similar manor as Frank has done, since I'm not sure of the long term saltwater durability of my favorite brand of duck tape.

I see the need to beef up the side thru hulls, and was planning on looking closely at how Dan beefed his up. With the new tangle guard configuration I'm planning, I don't expect the thrusters will sustain any real damage unless the Euronaut or the like plays to rough with my sub.

Regards,

Szybowski




> Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Subdate
> Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 17:46:21 -0400
> From: Alec.Smyth@compuware.com
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
>
> Hi James,
>
> 1. Do people just buy the standard Minn Kota outboard motor complete
> with the bracket, leg, controls, handle, battery etc and just modify the
> motor part? or can you get just the motor and prop on its own?
>
> AS: You can buy just the parts you need cheaper than the whole thing, I
> recommend www.trollingmotorparts.com.
>
>
> 2. Whats the through hull design? A straight forward twin O ring
> through hull on the outboard shaft?
>
> AS: I would not go with the standard pipe because it just isn't strong.
> In fact some motors come with plastic pipes designed to be flexible so
> the shaft bends when you hit something, rather than break off. On the
> side thrusters, I've got heavy through-hulls. I did use the stock pipe
> on the stern thruster, because that one doesn't go through the hull. The
> through-hulls are just a SS bar stock with an external shoulder to
> prevent the thing from being pushed in, and bored to whatever minimum
> inside diameter you need for the cables and potting. Do not just pot the
> cables, you have to put in solid conductors so the pressure doesn't wick
> along the cable strands. I'd recommend machining some vice flats on the
> through-hull too, for the day you need to unscrew a thruster that's been
> on there a few years.
>
>
> 3. Compensation. Oil, ambient air pressure regulator?
> I've had both but like oil compensation the best because it's the
> simplest (not a single moving part). I just changed the oil a couple of
> days ago. I expected it to be laden with carbon deposits, but it came
> out looking like new despite being in there for 4 years. Admittedly I
> put very few hours on the sub, but it still surprised me that the oil
> came out looking as clear as the day it went in. And yes, it WAS oil not
> water that came out...
>
> :)
>
> Alec





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