Interesting!
Thanks Alec,
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 9:14 AM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side
Thruster Options
Hi Dan,
I recall a past thread in the past on this topic, it
must be in the archives. Mine were air compensated when I bought Snoopy
but I switched to oil because the way the air compensation was originally
implemented, a little air bled into the cabin raising the interior
pressure. So I've run the same exact motors in both air and oil. I cannot
tell the slightest difference. They seem to have exactly the same power, and
even make exactly the same sound. In retrospect, I wish I'd measured the
current draw so I could compare that, but I'm afraid it's too late. Either
method works just fine.
thanks,
Alec
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If I were to do it again I would also go with a Minkota
or similar for me thrusters. I built mine from standard DC
motors. They're ambient pressure inside and have ceramic shaft
seals. It was a lot to go through and not cheep when all was done.
The worse is the weight of them.
Speed controllers aren't really necessary on fractional
horse powered thrusters like side thrusters because of the mass of the
sub. It doesn't react fast. Just pulsing them on and off is
sufficient. Where I do recommend a speed controller is on the rear
thruster so you can slowly cruse, skimming the bottom.
Has anyone done any experimenting with oil filling
thrusters to determine if there is an increase in electrical current draw or
reduction in thrust do to the drag of the swirling oil and maybe some floating
of the brushes?
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 5:05
AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side
Thruster Options
Hi Brent
I am also planning on using Min Kota 's on my K350 I
am also thinking of splitting my front mbt for better view of my hydraulic
manipulator you got any thoughts.
All the best
glen south Africa
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 12:23
AM
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Side
Thruster Options
Greetings James,
I'm also
planning on installing small mostly off the shelf thrusters on the sides
of my K boat to reduce drag and simplify things. I've been planning
on using 36 volt Minn Kota 101 saltwater thrusters, like Frank, and I
believe Vance are using and oil compensate them. Last I checked
those thruster were running $250 each with the speed controllers going
for $150 each.
I'll have to check my notes, but I
believe Karl Stanley is using 6 of the 36 volt Minn Kota saltwater
thruster that he has oil compensated, and has used down to 2500 fsw.
Two for vertical thrust and four in the stern. Are you expecting to go
that deep James. ;}
I like the idea of using the existing flexible
shafts on some motors that Alec mentioned. I expected that I would clamp
mine on in a similar manor as Frank has done, since I'm not sure of the
long term saltwater durability of my favorite brand of duck tape.
I
see the need to beef up the side thru hulls, and was planning on looking
closely at how Dan beefed his up. With the new tangle guard configuration
I'm planning, I don't expect the thrusters will sustain any real damage
unless the Euronaut or the like plays to rough with my
sub.
Regards, Szybowski
> Subject:
RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Subdate > Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 17:46:21
-0400 > From: Alec.Smyth@compuware.com > To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org > > Hi James, >
> 1. Do people just buy the standard Minn Kota outboard motor
complete > with the bracket, leg, controls, handle, battery etc and
just modify the > motor part? or can you get just the motor and prop
on its own? > > AS: You can buy just the parts you need
cheaper than the whole thing, I > recommend
www.trollingmotorparts.com. > > > 2. Whats the through
hull design? A straight forward twin O ring > through hull on the
outboard shaft? > > AS: I would not go with the standard pipe
because it just isn't strong. > In fact some motors come with
plastic pipes designed to be flexible so > the shaft bends when you
hit something, rather than break off. On the > side thrusters, I've
got heavy through-hulls. I did use the stock pipe > on the stern
thruster, because that one doesn't go through the hull. The >
through-hulls are just a SS bar stock with an external shoulder to >
prevent the thing from being pushed in, and bored to whatever
minimum > inside diameter you need for the cables and potting. Do
not just pot the > cables, you have to put in solid conductors so
the pressure doesn't wick > along the cable strands. I'd recommend
machining some vice flats on the > through-hull too, for the day you
need to unscrew a thruster that's been > on there a few years.
> > > 3. Compensation. Oil, ambient air pressure
regulator? > I've had both but like oil compensation the best
because it's the > simplest (not a single moving part). I just
changed the oil a couple of > days ago. I expected it to be laden
with carbon deposits, but it came > out looking like new despite
being in there for 4 years. Admittedly I > put very few hours on the
sub, but it still surprised me that the oil > came out looking as
clear as the day it went in. And yes, it WAS oil not > water that
came out... > > :) > > Alec
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