RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Subdate

["Emile van Essen" <emile@airesearch.nl>]

Hi James,

1.  Do people just buy the standard Minn Kota outboard motor complete with
the bracket, leg, controls, handle, battery etc and just modify the motor
part?  or can you get just the motor and prop on its own?

>>> I dont think it will be cheaper. Try to get Rhino trolling motors;
Controller is better for modification.

2.  Whats the through hull design?  A straight forward twin O ring through
hull on the outboard shaft?

>> Shaft round enough?? Also think what happens with a collision. I designed
the Eurosub /KSS thrusters so that there is no leak when one snaps off..
I send you a drawing offlist.

Emile





I'm worried about weight on the 1-man K boat. Payload is at a premium.
However, I'm ditching the old steel cans and the 3hp motor/1/2 hp side
thrusters in favor of the Minn Kota 101s, figuring on improved thrust and
substantially less weight in the process. I'll look into the SS sheet. My
brother works in a machine/fab shop, so we can do pretty much anything we
want to. The Perry tanks were 14 gauge as I recall. They oil canned a little
over time, but we walked all over those puppies all the time, so they are
strong enough to sit out there without protective fairings.

One of the real bonuses about moving the tanks from the old Kittredge style
is visibility. That forward tank is in the WAY, not two ways about it. Of
course it will tow like a miniature shipping container, so that's something
to think about as well.

I'll be doing a picture series on this rebuild. By changing tanks,
thrusters, steering, valves,?et al, it's a way to show the guys how to bring
the sub up to date while using the stock pressure hull design.

When are you coming to Daytona? I'm thinking mojito here.

Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: ShellyDalg@aol.com
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 12:04 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Subdate



Hi Vance. Those pictures of Carsten and Emile's sub are really good, and
show a lot of good ideas along with some first rate workmanship. Very
impressive. 

They also show the differences between the new technology/design in
comparison to the original Kittredge boats. Incorporating some of those
innovations into a re-build of your K boat would be great to see.

As it applies to the fairwater tanks, it seems like a good bit of work. One
of the things I like about the K boat design is it's simplicity. The FRP
shells being a combination of tanks and fairing there by serving dual
purposes is good in it's simplicity but presents a slight increase in risk.

The Kreidersub is using aluminum as tanks, which seems to me a good idea.
Metal tanks will take a lot more abuse than FRP. The saddle design versus
front/back like on the K boats also adds surface stability and deck space.
Both good improvements that should be fairly easy to add to a K boat. ( OK,
maybe not so easy, but still good )

My comment on this would be to suggest stainless rather than aluminum.

The FRP shells could be modified ( saved ) to cover the added saddle tanks
and still serve as fairings. I've made my fairings about 1/4 to 3/8 inch
thick FRP ( up to 1 inch in critical areas?)?and I'm confident I can walk on
them without worry. 

The stainless tanks can take a serious "hit"?without leaking, unlike the K
boat shells. They will get dented, but would really have to hit something
hard and sharp to punch a hole or blow out a seam. 

Aluminum is good, but stainless is better at resisting corrosion, and much
stronger on impact.

The cost difference between stainless and aluminum isn't that great, and
thinner stainless can be used due to it's increased strength. Also,
stainless is easier to weld, and more ductile than aluminum, so shaping it
is less risky where cracks on tight bends could be a problem with aluminum.

I had originally planned on using FRP for my tanks, but decided that
"cracking" them on the rocks was too risky. Then I went with 16 gage
stainless, covered by FRP fairings to keep a sleek and snag free shape.
Well, as you see, I ended up with increased thickness on the tanks, ( 12
gage ), eliminated the lower fairings, and saved a big chunk of money and
the extra work associated with producing the lower fairings.

The Kriedersub is a fine example of the evolution of the basic K boat
design, and I'm sure that future designs will be along those lines.

As it relates to a rebuild, these new ideas seem like?a worthwhile?endeavor
with the added stability and resistance to crashing. 

Have you got any pictures of your sub? Sure would be nice to see a re-fit in
photos as it progresses.

Looking forward to seeing you soon and sharing some ideas over a drink.
Frank D.??


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