I was just wondering what the Farrington's did on there K-350. Looks like they attached two 4X4's with what looks like SS tabs welded to the pods, and some small SS plates welded to the pod tubes for the 4X4's to hit up against, and allow the pods and 4X4's to breath. This looks like a great cost effective configuration. Here are the pictures.
http://www.prismnet.com/~jrf/SubPics/image640.html
http://www.prismnet.com/~jrf/SubPics/image639.html
http://www.prismnet.com/~jrf/SubPics/image642.html
http://www.prismnet.com/~jrf/SubPics/image645.html
Some pod hummer
http://www.prismnet.com/~jrf/SubPics/image647.html
http://www.prismnet.com/~jrf/SubPics/image655.html
http://www.prismnet.com/~jrf/SubPics/image656.html
Main Page
http://www.prismnet.com/~jrf/SubPics/page014.html
Szybowski
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] wood skids
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 12:38:33 -0500
From:
vbra676539@aol.com
One other thing comes to mind. If you're already dealing with steel channel skids like Captain Kittredge specified, then cut scallops out of them, leaving a four inch pad at each end and in the middle. Then take a hefty board and notch it a quarter inch deep to lock the skid into place and run vertical bolts into the pads. It will open the channel you already have for sandblast and paint, while relieving you of the nasty duty (like I had) of torching it all off to find pitting like the New Jersey turnpike. I had to install doublers in that area.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From:
vbra676539@aol.com
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 12:12 pm
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] wood skids
Weld on some padeyes and use hefty bolts. The skids will need to support the entire sub's weight on the ground, rather than depending on the bolts. But use big bolts, as these things can and will take some abuse while you're bumping around down on the bottom.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From:
Recon1st@aol.com
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 9:11 am
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] wood skids
Vance what a great idea.
I was just about to weld on some 3" channel. Really did not like that as can not
paint the enclosed area. I think I am going to have to try this.
For mounting, how much compression do you think will occur? I am thinking I could bolt
em on.
Dean
In a message dated 2/22/2009 7:57:49 A.M. Central Standard Time,
vbra676539@aol.com writes:
Brent,
Considering the cost, why not just set the assembly up for easier DIS-assembly and paint under there annually, like everyone should have done in the first place. Stainless corrodes in low oxygen enviornments, so you might just be building another problem down underneath. I'd also consider using plain old dipped galvanize pipe for bottom skids, rather than stainless. Again, for the price difference, you could just throw them away during the annual overhaul and it would cost just a few bucks, rather than a lot of bucks. Alternatively, weld in some new brackets and bolt on pressure treated pine skids. It will wear some during operations, but can be discarded and replaced for not much money. I've got teak skids under the pods on my K350, but at today's prices, I'd do something less expensive.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: Brent Hartwig <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>
To: PSUBSorg <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 12:54 am
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lead Plates Removel on K-250 #118
Greetings SMMOMs,
The nuts on the inside of the lead plates were rusted on, and it was to tight in under there to cut them off. So I just drilled out the carriage bolt heads instead, then punched them thru. Because there was no gap between the lead plates and the steel parts, those area rusted faster. I can see some one adding a few SS weld beads vertically on both sides of the vertical plate that the lead is attached to. So that the lead plates would rest up against them and let those areas dry out faster.
I'm thinking I'll replace the vertical steel plate and lower skid plate with SS. There is some heavy pitting on the vertical plates, but there is likely still enough material there if I wanted to use it. If I did I would weld in some SS bushings were the attachment holes are.
You'll notice that the port outside lead plate has forstner bit holes drilled all over it. that was because the inside port plate was much thicker then the starboard inside plate, and so the sub was at one time to heavy on the port side. For some reason they felt is was easier to remove the extra weight from the outer plate. So remember to weigh your plates before you install them.
I will have a few small areas on the tube section of the hull to weld in some pits. But I don't think it will be to bad after talking with some of the guys.
http://cid-5085d10eb6afe47c.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Lead%20Plates%20Removel
" The beginning of knowledge is the discovery of something we do not understand." ~ Frank Herbert
Regards,
Szybowski
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