[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lead Plates Removel on K-250 #118





Hi  Frank, 
 
I had been meaning to comment on your drawing showing a welded on tab.  I plan to use 316 SS welded on tabs and brackets for all sorts of things, instead of steel ones so I don't have to worry about damaging the paint on them. I'll likely just use nylon washer backed with 316 SS washers like you mentioned for the depths I expect to be going.  I would think that for most things I would just buy the nylon washers, instead of making my own. If I found I needed some thing stronger I might consider making my own Delrin washers, spacers, and bushings.
 
Silicon bronze bolts have some good uses.  I would think if you used a good thread compound with 316 SS nuts and bolts you would be just fine in most cases. But if you want a bolt to be the weakest point and shear off, then silicon bronze might be a good option.

Cheers,
Szybowski



 

From: ShellyDalg@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 11:26:31 -0500
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lead Plates Removel on K-250 #118
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org

Hi Brent. There's a little work there but I'm sure you'll get er done. Good idea to add some stainless beads for drainage. Quick, cheap, and simple.
As you know, I took great pains in the design phase to avoid creating spaces that would corrode. All the "attachments" on my hull have small welded on tabs on the hull which can ( and will ) be removed quickly and easily so that "after dive" cleaning will become routine. I was wondering if nylon plates between bolted connectors would aid in corrosion protection. I can pick up 1/4 inch nylon stock almost free, and it's easy to cut and drill. I'll be using some on my hatch hinge as well. I'll let everyone know how it turns out. Frank D.


A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!