|
Vance what a great idea.
I was just about to weld on some 3" channel. Really did not like
that as can not
paint the enclosed area. I think I am going to have to try this.
For mounting, how much compression do you think
will occur? I am thinking I could bolt
em on.
Dean
In a message dated 2/22/2009 7:57:49 A.M. Central Standard Time,
vbra676539@aol.com writes:
Brent,
Considering the cost, why not just set the assembly up for
easier DIS-assembly and paint under there annually, like everyone should have
done in the first place. Stainless corrodes in low oxygen enviornments,
so you might just be building another problem down underneath. I'd also
consider using plain old dipped galvanize pipe for bottom skids, rather than
stainless. Again, for the price difference, you could just throw them away
during the annual overhaul and it would cost just a few bucks, rather than a
lot of bucks. Alternatively, weld in some new brackets and bolt on pressure
treated pine skids. It will wear some during operations, but can be discarded
and replaced for not much money. I've got teak skids under the pods on my
K350, but at today's prices, I'd do something less
expensive.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: Brent
Hartwig <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>
To: PSUBSorg
<personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 12:54
am
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Lead Plates Removel on K-250 #118
Greetings
SMMOMs, The nuts on the inside of the
lead plates were rusted on, and it was to tight in under there to cut them
off. So I just drilled out the carriage bolt heads instead, then punched them
thru. Because there was no gap between the lead plates and the steel parts,
those area rusted faster. I can see some one adding a few SS weld beads
vertically on both sides of the vertical plate that the lead is attached to.
So that the lead plates would rest up against them and let those areas dry out
faster. I'm thinking I'll replace the
vertical steel plate and lower skid plate with SS. There is some heavy
pitting on the vertical plates, but there is likely still enough material
there if I wanted to use it. If I did I would weld in some SS bushings
were the attachment holes are. You'll notice that the port
outside lead plate has forstner bit holes drilled all over it. that was
because the inside port plate was much thicker then the starboard inside
plate, and so the sub was at one time to heavy on the port side. For some
reason they felt is was easier to remove the extra weight from the outer
plate. So remember to weigh your plates before you install
them. I will have a few small areas on
the tube section of the hull to weld in some pits. But I don't think it will
be to bad after talking with some of the guys. http://cid-5085d10eb6afe47c.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Lead%20Plates%20Removel
" The beginning of knowledge is the discovery of something we do not
understand." ~ Frank Herbert
Regards,Szybowski=
Need a job? Find an employment agency near you.
|