Hi Rick,
I see now, says the blind man as he spits into the wind. It's all coming back to me now. Your going to weld in your SS plate, which will give you more area to drill holes, then if that size of plate was used in a removable configuration. Your not alone in using that config. since Dan Brewer and Emile have done that as well. It's a very usable configuration.
http://www.psubs.org/convention/2007/photos/rayk/Dan_Brewer_Sub/640/5.jpg
http://picasaweb.google.nl/submachine55/kreideseesub#5294570603186873954
I prefer using a removable plate type, since you can add holes and thread then if you wish much easier, and if at some point you need a totally different hole pattern and/or size you only have to make a new plate. This way no welding is needed later down the road.
See if you can send the pictures to me off list if you can not upload them to Frappr, Flicker, Fritter, Flack, or the like. There is a couple of tricks with Frappr if you would like to know them. I sent some pictures to you the other day, if you didn't see the email, it will likely be in your junk mail folder.
Regards,
Szybowski
From: landnsea1@hawaiiantel.net
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Large Plate Multi Thru Hull Options
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 13:34:52 -1000
Hi Brent,
I'll look around and see if I can find some better shots
of the SAT penetrators that show them closer up, if not I will send you the one
I have at hand. I have never posted any pictures on this site and am ashamed to
say that I am quite computer illiterate compared to the majority of members on
this site judging from a lot of the neat CAD drawings I have seen people whip
up. I blame it on too much helium, or not enough, back in my SAT
days.
I was planning on cutting out a 6" diameter piece of the
5/8" plate and then cutting out a slightly larger hole in the dished end to
allow for a proper root gap and then doing a full pen weld. My reason for
putting it into the dished end is because it is thicker than the hull plate and
I feel it would be stronger due to the dished end curving in all directions
rather than the hull plate curving in only one direction. I certainly could be
wrong about that and am open to any suggestions.
Rick P.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 12:24
PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Large Plate
Multi Thru Hull Options
Hi Rick,
Using those left over SS plates is a
good plan. Phil recently mentioned he does that as well. They don't give
away the thick SS plate any more. ;)' I've change my
conning tower design because of the new SS plate pricing. I've got a
couple of ideas of how I can TIG weld in some SS sleeves and/or threaded blind
sleeves to attach the SS tension rods or bolted on the rings, to hold the
thick acrylic cylinder in position. Then ease the corners of the seating
groove for the acrylic cylinder, and use a soft gasket to seal the parts
together. This way I can just use steel plate conning tower seating
flanges.
Do you have any pictures of the SAT system thru hulls?
They would be interesting to take a look at.
I just found some more
pictures of the S201 interior attachment means for there plate thru hulls. I
can now see that they used three bolts to hold the outer SS plate in place
with a SS ring inside, instead of just two bolts. This if more like what I
would expect from Paul. He also uses just three light weight attachment points
on his hatches.
I also found some pictures of the plate thru hull
design used on the Alicia submarine. They are mounted on the top aft end of
the tube section of the hull, instead of the heads, and so they are a bit
different. They don't have the nice angle on the outside surface as those on
the S201. He installed a number of basic individual thru hulls on
Alicia's rear head as well. But he didn't do that on the S201's rear head. He
instead opted to use four large plate thru hulls, of the same size and
configuration as the ones on the front head. This makes manufacturing and
installing the parts easier as well. This I feel shows the fast
evolution of his designs.
Are you wanting to make the total outer SS
plate diameter 6", or the ID of the welded in thru hull 6"? If you have
total outer SS plate size of 6", and you have say a 4" ID of the welded in
thru hull, I would think it wouldn't give you enough room to fit in
8 1/2" holes, and all the rest.
Regards,
Szybowski
From: landnsea1@hawaiiantel.net
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Large Plate
Multi Thru Hull Options
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 14:12:28 -1000
Hi Brent
I was hoping to use the ss drop I have left over from
cutting the sealing ring for the hatch on my K-350 if possible and it's 5/8"
thick. I will need 8 apertures in it for four functions for my mechanical arm
but not sure of the hole size yet until I can determine flow and lifting
requirements. I am guessing approx 1/2" but may be wrong. I would also like to
keep it at no more than 6" diameter if possible for obvious reasons. I went
back and looked at some pictures of some Sat systems I used to live and
work in and all there penetrators seem to go threw a removable blind
flange.
Rick P.
-----
Original Message -----
Sent:
Wednesday, January 21, 2009 6:20 PM
Subject:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Large Plate Multi Thru Hull Options
That's a very good question Rick. One that I've been
pondering since yesterday. I was planning on having one large one
centered on both the front and rear heads and up a bit. But with the
mushroom vent assembly being in that area, the lines coming out of the plate
would get in the way. So now it looks to me like my best option is to
put two smaller ones towards the sides, much like what was done on the S201
as seen in these pictures linked below. As you might expect, the
larger the plates unsupported diameter, the thicker it should be.
What that is we'll have to work out. Also we need to consider how many
holes of what size there will be, and where. I was thinking of using a
.5" or .75 thick piece of 316 SS for a plate with a inside unsupported
diameter of 6 or 7 inches. I need to guestimate the number and size of
items I want to go thru each plate, and then leave some room for future
needs/wants. Currently I feel I'll need a good amount of thru hull
connections for future pnuematic acturators, sonars, cameras, more lighting,
and paint ball guns for sub tag. May be not the last one.
;)' I know a few other guys that wished they had
added more thru hulls for future unknown
needs/wants.
http://www.msubs.com/Images/Services%20Images/Pressure%20Vessel%20Design/Pressure%20Vessel%20Design%20-%20Main%20Image.jpg
http://www.msubs.com/Images/S201%20Images/S201%20-%201.jpg
http://www.msubs.com/Images/S201%20Images/S201%20-%203.jpg
In
this picture of the interior of the S201 you can see on the center left
side, the way Paul designed the plates to be attached from the inside, with
a simple SS ring plate and two bolts. This way he does not need to drill
into the welded in seating ring, and the ring can be made with a much
cheaper steal, rather then use very thick SS. I'm working up a CAD model to
better show this configuration. I'm not sure if a O-ring or gasket in the SS
plate will be the best option. I'm leaning towards a O-ring
configuration.
http://www.msubs.com/Images/S201%20Images/S201%20-%208.jpg
Regards,
Szybowski
From: landnsea1@hawaiiantel.net
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] The Long Arm
of the Claw
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 16:32:26 -1000
What diameter and thickness ss plate are you going to
use in the front and rear heads?
Rick P.
-----
Original Message -----
Sent:
Tuesday, January 20, 2009 1:14 PM
Subject:
RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] The Long Arm of the Claw
The rotary thru hull is
rusted and has male threads on the exterior that are rusting quite
nicely. I'm changing all the thru hulls in the sub to 316 SS
couplers, so while I'm at it I might as well change that one as well, so I
can get all the hull welding out of the way. I'm adding two large SS plate
type thru hulls on both the forward and rear heads for what ever I might
want later as will as current needs. This way I can install and run
a pnuematic, electric, or hydralic arm later.
I just figured out how Paul
Moorhouse attaches his SS plates without any bolt holes in the main hull.
So I'll make a CAD model to show you guys what I thinking will be nice to
use on my sub.
http://cid-5085d10eb6afe47c.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Claw%20Removel/SS%20Claw%20Control%20Bar/DSCN7320.JPG
"A wise
man will make more opportunities than he finds." ~ Sir Francis
Bacon
Szybowski
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] The
Long Arm of the Claw
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 20:43:13 -0500
From:
vbra676539@aol.com
I'd leave the rotary penetrator plugged for when
you can think of something to do with it, and build something more useful
for a manipulator. That's if you can find it under the
snowfield.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: Brent
Hartwig <brenthartwig@hotmail.com>
To: PSUBSorg
<personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 6:35
pm
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] The Long Arm of the Claw
Hi Vance, The winter
up here is pretty deep. I went home the other day to shovel snow off
my buildings and Van and it was a four day chore. I had the sub
ready for blasting outside, and then was called away from home to
work. By the time I got back the sub was under 4 plus feet of snow.
The pictures I took are pretty funny. I'll post them in a bit. So
the sub is underwater and in the deep freeze for save
keeping. I have been debating for some
time now if I should leave my original claw arm on the sub. It's
very hard and slow to actuate. So at the moment it's used for
just a crash bar, like Alec uses his for. I can make a proper
replacement crash bar, then later add a more functional arm. So it's
mostly a matter of nostalgia at the moment. What would you do
in my place. I take it you could see the pictures
right? Jay try this link to the root
for the albums. If that doesn't work then I'll post them on Flicker.
I tried those links when being signed out and being on Windows Explorer
browser and had no trouble. I also tried them on a Mac in Firefox and had
no trouble. The only thing I can see that is different in the link from
the address bar from the ones in my posting is the %20 sign used in place
of spaces that are put in automatically when I copy and past the
links. Perhaps they are causing the trouble if you copy and paste
them. I tried them both by just clicking the links and copying and
pasting and they worked good. The albums are set as public just like
I did before. Hope this works.
Regards,
Szybowski
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.orgSubject:
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] The Long Arm of the Claw Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009
18:52:07 -0500 From: vbra676539@aol.comIt's nice
to know I'm not the only one stuck with bull work. Of course, it was 76
degrees here today, sunny and a few clouds...breezy. Okay, I can't think
of a complaint. And there's some of you guys who up to your armpits in
winter, and I do mean winter. Vance
-----Original
Message----- From: Brent Hartwig < brenthartwig@hotmail.com> To:
PSUBSorg < personal_submersibles@psubs.org> Sent:
Mon, 19 Jan 2009 5:43 pm Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] The Long Arm of the
Claw
=
|
