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Hi Brent,
Another solution might be the small blowers that come with
air beds as they are small and sized for the exact operation you are trying to
perform except in reverse. You would of course then need an inverter to get 120
volts from yur batteries.
Best Regards,
Jim K
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 3:33
PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Inflatable
Pontoon Configuration Options
Hey
Ian,
You have a good point
about getting all the air out of the inflatable's. I wonders how
SEAmagine does it. I'll have to go look at there patent
again.
"Another object of
the present invention is, to provide a surface buoyancy supplementing system
that has a reduced cross-sectional area for underwater operation, but also
provides stability and buoyancy for loading and unloading
passengers."
http://www.google.com/patents?id=3gUHAAAAEBAJ&dq=6321676
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8spX4pRWQyE
My
pontoons will be strapped to a long narrow Rhino coated aluminum standing
deck, and will be sucked up into the bottom of said deck for submerged
ops.
After my last post, I was trying to figure out how to remove the
need for the two bottom vent holes on the pontoons that have
expansion valves on them that I proposed, and the four manual valves and there
corresponding thru hulls that I mentioned earlier. Two that are for
venting the air out of the pontoons when at the surface, and being up
higher in the subs pressure hull, and two down low to allow air
to freely flow out of the pontoon as the sub accents from
depth during a emergency accent. That way I only have two holes to
add to the top of the pontoons. To be able to do this, I was thinking
that a 12 volt vacuum pump could be installed inside the sub, and use it when
at the surface with your hatch open, to suck all the air out of the pontoons.
Perhaps a cordless vacuum could be found to work faster. The lines would
be attached on the inside of the sub right next to where the inflation air
goes in. At that point, there would be a valve on both the vacuum line and
pressurized air
line.
This
cordless Dewalt vacuum might fit the bill, and I can use it to clean the
interior of my sub as well. No more need to swab the decks. ;)' I
had already planned on using one of these on my live aboard sub for cleaning
with.
http://www.cpopowertools.com/products/dc500r.html?ref=googaw&kw=%7Bkeyword%7D
This Dyson unit is
much smaller, and might fit better into my small
sub.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8026263&type=product&id=1157067256196
Then for being able to properly vent the air from the pontoons if
the pontoons are needed for an emergency assent from depth I was
thinking of just putting another expansion valve next to the ones I first
proposed on the bottom of another downward facing T's in the 2 inch
aluminum tubing that runs towards the subs hull. This would get rid
of the two lower manually operated valves.
Since I'm using one of the two tubes that run to the
pontoons for both inflating and deflating, basically making the tubes an
extension of the inside of the pontoon, I would only need one hole
in the pontoon. But since they are 7 or 8 feet long pontoons, and I want more
volume of air to be able to get to the four large expansion valves, I thought
I better have two
holes.
Regards,
Szybowski
>
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 13:32:14 -0500
> From: irox@ix.netcom.com
>
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
Inflatable Pontoon Configuration Options
>
>
> Hi
Brent,
>
> are you planning on removing the inflatable pontoons
before diving?
>
> I've consider the inflatable pontoon option
before, but one of the draw
> back I thought I'd run into is getting all
the air out of them. If they
> are on the sub during a dive with air
trapped in them, the buoyancy of
> the sub will change as the sub goes
deeper. A solution was to detach the
> pontoons and bring them into the
sub when diving - althought the extra
> work an storage requirements are
kind of a draw back of that idea.
>
> I like idea of cutting the
bottom out of a zodiac boat, adding some
> attachment points to the sub
so the zodiac can be attached to the sub
> when it's on the surface.
Detaching the zodiac when ready to dive
> and leaving it on the surface
(with a dive flag).
>
> Cheers,
> Ian
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> >From: Brent Hartwig
<brenthartwig@hotmail.com>
> >Sent: Dec 13, 2008 4:47
AM
> >To: PSUBSorg <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
>
>Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Inflatable Pontoon Configuration Options
>
>
> >
> >
> >I left out that I'll need two
venting valves next to the hull and thru hulls for them, just above the tubing
attachment points on the hull. I can see now that it might be better to add
two outlets at the bottom of the pontoons and place the expansion valves there
instead, so to be able to blow any water out that might get into them. There
are floats available that contain two tubes inside, one in front and one in
back. These might be a better option for several reasons.
>
>Regards,Szybowski
> >
> >From:
brenthartwig@hotmail.comTo: personal_submersibles@psubs.orgSubject: RE:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Removing Front MBTDate: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 01:30:34
-0800
> >
> >Hey Frank, I sold my sewing machine for a MIG
welder, so I'm SOL. ;)' I have a friend that is a real pro and making these
type of floats and designs and manufactures the very custom machines that
Zodiac and others use. So I was thinking of having him make one from scratch,
but he and I decided that with all the very nice premade units that are
available, we could likely find one that we could add two large top custom
vent holes in and be done with it. Since I'm configuring these to be blown at
depth if needed in an emergency, it's more work to calculate and design. At
the moment I'm planning to install two 2 inch ID basic vents that I can attach
a short flexible hose to, then that hose attaches to one of the 2 inch
schedule 40 aluminum tube supports for the tangle guard and pontoon standing
platform. This way I don't need a extra hose on the outside of the sub, since
that said support tube can serve double duty. Then as the tube goes toward the
sub, there is a downward facing T added to the tubing with a large volume low
pressure pop off valve facing downward attached to the bottom of the T. This
expansion valve will be set at the proper level needed to keep the pontoons
inflated at the surface. Since there is one expansion valve on each of the two
tubes that come towards the sub, they should keep me from popping the pontoons
during surface ops. Then for blowing the pontoons at depth I feel I need to
add another set of T's right next to the sub that go down well below the
bottom of the pontoons and that tube will be curved to the shape of the hull,
and at the bottom of that tube will be a large valve that is attached to a
thru hull at that point. This is so I can operate it from inside, just like a
MBT vent valve in the conning tower. I obtained that basic idea from the two
tubes that come out of the bottom of the large plastic pipes with caps, that
were used on the Dennoch sub. http://www.psubs.org/museum/museum_sfphotos.html
For filling the pontoons with air from the SCUBA tanks, I'll have a thru hull
going right thru were one the the tangle guard support tubes attaches to the
side of the sub. This is a little more work, but will give me a cleaner look
when finished. That is the concept I have worked up to this point. I'm sure it
will need some fine tuning, once I have made a full assembly model of it, I'll
have you guys take a look at it, as well as my local
expert.Regards,Szybowski
> >
> >From:
ShellyDalg@aol.comDate: Thu, 11 Dec 2008 16:48:46 -0500Subject: Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] Removing Front MBTTo: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
>
>Hi Brent. Seems like you could make your own pontoons fairly easy and
cheap. As long as they weren't necessary to ascend. You can buy rubber
sheeting and also tubes off the shelf in pretty much any thickness you want.
Making a big inner tube type pontoon should be pretty simple, and the same
guys who sell the tubes/sheets have several types of glue that bond stronger
than the material itself. That may be a good way to save some money, and give
you more flexibility on the shape.
> >You could also make a nylon bag
for it to protect it from abrasion and sunlight. Just sew it together on a
regular sewing machine. Frank D.
> >
> >
> >Make
your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one
place. Try it now.
>
>
>
>
>
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