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I guess I
missed something but why aren't you going to use rigid
pontoons?
Brian
Hi Brent,
Another solution might be the small blowers that come
with air beds as they are small and sized for the exact operation you are
trying to perform except in reverse. You would of course then need an inverter
to get 120 volts from yur batteries.
Best Regards,
Jim K
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 3:33
PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Inflatable
Pontoon Configuration Options
Hey
Ian,
You have a good point
about getting all the air out of the inflatable's. I wonders how
SEAmagine does it. I'll have to go look at there patent
again.
"Another object of
the present invention is, to provide a surface buoyancy supplementing system
that has a reduced cross-sectional area for underwater operation, but also
provides stability and buoyancy for loading and unloading
passengers."
http://www.google.com/patents?id=3gUHAAAAEBAJ&dq=6321676
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8spX4pRWQyE
My pontoons will be
strapped to a long narrow Rhino coated aluminum standing deck, and will be
sucked up into the bottom of said deck for submerged
ops.
After my last post, I
was trying to figure out how to remove the need for the two bottom vent
holes on the pontoons that have expansion valves on them that I
proposed, and the four manual valves and there corresponding thru hulls that
I mentioned earlier. Two that are for venting the air out of the
pontoons when at the surface, and being up higher in the subs pressure
hull, and two down low to allow air to freely flow out of the
pontoon as the sub accents from depth during a emergency
accent. That way I only have two holes to add to the top of the
pontoons. To be able to do this, I was thinking that a 12 volt vacuum
pump could be installed inside the sub, and use it when at the surface with
your hatch open, to suck all the air out of the pontoons. Perhaps a cordless
vacuum could be found to work faster. The lines would be attached on
the inside of the sub right next to where the inflation air goes in. At that
point, there would be a valve on both the vacuum line and pressurized air
line.
This
cordless Dewalt vacuum might fit the bill, and I can use it to clean the
interior of my sub as well. No more need to swab the decks. ;)'
I had already planned on using one of these on my live aboard sub for
cleaning with.
http://www.cpopowertools.com/products/dc500r.html?ref=googaw&kw=%7Bkeyword%7D
This Dyson unit is
much smaller, and might fit better into my small
sub.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8026263&type=product&id=1157067256196
Then for being able to
properly vent the air from the pontoons if the pontoons are needed for an
emergency assent from depth I was thinking of just putting another
expansion valve next to the ones I first proposed on the bottom of another
downward facing T's in the 2 inch aluminum tubing that runs
towards the subs hull. This would get rid of the two lower manually operated
valves.
Since I'm
using one of the two tubes that run to the pontoons for both
inflating and deflating, basically making the tubes an extension of
the inside of the pontoon, I would only need one hole in the
pontoon. But since they are 7 or 8 feet long pontoons, and I want more
volume of air to be able to get to the four large expansion valves, I
thought I better have two
holes.
Regards,
Szybowski
>
Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 13:32:14 -0500
> From:
irox@ix.netcom.com
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Inflatable Pontoon Configuration
Options
>
>
> Hi Brent,
>
> are you
planning on removing the inflatable pontoons before diving?
>
>
I've consider the inflatable pontoon option before, but one of the
draw
> back I thought I'd run into is getting all the air out of them.
If they
> are on the sub during a dive with air trapped in them, the
buoyancy of
> the sub will change as the sub goes deeper. A solution
was to detach the
> pontoons and bring them into the sub when diving -
althought the extra
> work an storage requirements are kind of a draw
back of that idea.
>
> I like idea of cutting the bottom out of
a zodiac boat, adding some
> attachment points to the sub so the
zodiac can be attached to the sub
> when it's on the surface.
Detaching the zodiac when ready to dive
> and leaving it on the
surface (with a dive flag).
>
> Cheers,
> Ian
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: Brent Hartwig
<brenthartwig@hotmail.com>
> >Sent: Dec 13, 2008 4:47
AM
> >To: PSUBSorg <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
>
>Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Inflatable Pontoon Configuration
Options
> >
> >
> >
> >I left out that
I'll need two venting valves next to the hull and thru hulls for them, just
above the tubing attachment points on the hull. I can see now that it might
be better to add two outlets at the bottom of the pontoons and place the
expansion valves there instead, so to be able to blow any water out that
might get into them. There are floats available that contain two tubes
inside, one in front and one in back. These might be a better option for
several reasons.
> >Regards,Szybowski
> >
>
>From: brenthartwig@hotmail.comTo:
personal_submersibles@psubs.orgSubject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Removing Front
MBTDate: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 01:30:34 -0800
> >
> >Hey Frank,
I sold my sewing machine for a MIG welder, so I'm SOL. ;)' I have a friend
that is a real pro and making these type of floats and designs and
manufactures the very custom machines that Zodiac and others use. So I was
thinking of having him make one from scratch, but he and I decided that with
all the very nice premade units that are available, we could likely find one
that we could add two large top custom vent holes in and be done with it.
Since I'm configuring these to be blown at depth if needed in an emergency,
it's more work to calculate and design. At the moment I'm planning to
install two 2 inch ID basic vents that I can attach a short flexible hose
to, then that hose attaches to one of the 2 inch schedule 40 aluminum tube
supports for the tangle guard and pontoon standing platform. This way I
don't need a extra hose on the outside of the sub, since that said support
tube can serve double duty. Then as the tube goes toward the sub, there is a
downward facing T added to the tubing with a large volume low pressure pop
off valve facing downward attached to the bottom of the T. This expansion
valve will be set at the proper level needed to keep the pontoons inflated
at the surface. Since there is one expansion valve on each of the two tubes
that come towards the sub, they should keep me from popping the pontoons
during surface ops. Then for blowing the pontoons at depth I feel I need to
add another set of T's right next to the sub that go down well below the
bottom of the pontoons and that tube will be curved to the shape of the
hull, and at the bottom of that tube will be a large valve that is attached
to a thru hull at that point. This is so I can operate it from inside, just
like a MBT vent valve in the conning tower. I obtained that basic idea from
the two tubes that come out of the bottom of the large plastic pipes with
caps, that were used on the Dennoch sub.
http://www.psubs.org/museum/museum_sfphotos.html For filling the pontoons
with air from the SCUBA tanks, I'll have a thru hull going right thru were
one the the tangle guard support tubes attaches to the side of the sub. This
is a little more work, but will give me a cleaner look when finished. That
is the concept I have worked up to this point. I'm sure it will need some
fine tuning, once I have made a full assembly model of it, I'll have you
guys take a look at it, as well as my local expert.Regards,Szybowski
>
>
> >From: ShellyDalg@aol.comDate: Thu, 11 Dec 2008 16:48:46
-0500Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Removing Front MBTTo:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> >Hi Brent. Seems like you could
make your own pontoons fairly easy and cheap. As long as they weren't
necessary to ascend. You can buy rubber sheeting and also tubes off the
shelf in pretty much any thickness you want. Making a big inner tube type
pontoon should be pretty simple, and the same guys who sell the tubes/sheets
have several types of glue that bond stronger than the material itself. That
may be a good way to save some money, and give you more flexibility on the
shape.
> >You could also make a nylon bag for it to protect it from
abrasion and sunlight. Just sew it together on a regular sewing machine.
Frank D.
> >
> >
> >Make your life easier with
all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it
now.
>
>
>
>
>
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