Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Penetrators/corrosion.

[<james@guernseysubmarine.com>]

Hi Frank.

Yes, im going to be using SS on quite a few things different to the plans im following.  Such as the hinge arrangement for the hatch.  That will be all 316L.  Other bits as well.  This is because im using my sub in the sea and i know thats a real  devil for corrosion.  When i was a kid someone chucked my bicycle into the sea and despite me washing it down with fresh water, it had all but dissintegrated a week later.

Im not sure about that plastic tank idea.  I couldnt see where it said what pressure they were rated to.  I saw on the video one at 135 psi.  I assume they go more than that?  But thats internal pressure.  Assuming the tank should withstand full diving pressure, I need 220 psi external.  WWW.LITECYLINDER.COM

They might be ok though.  The anti corrosion is the best bit, but they look good as well, plus like  you say you can see the level.  (That wont make any difference for me with it stuffed right under the sub!).

James



----- Original Message -----
From: ShellyDalg@aol.com [mailto:ShellyDalg@aol.com]
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 10:30:18 EDT
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Penetrators/corrosion.

Hi James. I suggest using Stainless for anything you can't get to later for
paint/maintenance.
On the VBT.....Greg turned me on to a great solution. There's a Plastic  high
pressure propane tank available now called "lite" or something. Google it  as
"propane tank lite" and you'll find it. I'll be using that tank because it
has multiple connections, doesn't rust, and you can see how much it's filled.
The 30 gallon fork lift fuel tank is only $200 and change. I can't buy or
build  a stainless tank for that. Frank D.



**************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best
2008.      (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)