I don't think so Brian,
It would be best to have your cylinder connected although
not necessarily fully welded before inserting the framing. The framing can
be adjusted but if you have a gap that you can't close it wouldn't be a good
idea to stick in a piece or try filling it with weld. Better a good
hull joint and work with the framing if you need to.
Best is to tack together the hull tube, taking care to
hold it round especially in the weld area. Weld to at least half depth
from the inside in the areas that the frames will be going. Fit in the
center frames and tack them in. Fit in the rest of the frames and tack
them in also. Then finish welding in each frame using a staggered pattern
of 120 degrees, only welding about six inches of weld, then turning the hull
120. Also weld one six inch stitch on one side of the frame and the next
on the other. The idea is to reduce heat concentration and
balance out any warpage that is created.
As you go keep checking for out or roundness and alter
your welding pattern if needed to help keep it round. You can use the
distortion of the welding to your advantage if you study it's effects as
you go along.
Lastly, I welded the hull seam to full penetration from
both sides by first gouging with a grinder and then welding to the root of the
opposite weld.
I'm sure there is more then one way to put a hull
together. This it the way I used and had reasonable success.
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 11:32
PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350
Reinforcing Rings
What if you placed them inside the cylinder before the
longitudal weld of the cylinder was made, then if you closed the
cylinder with chain come-a-longs and then do all the welding. Would that
be a good procedure?
Brian
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006
15:02
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350
Reinforcing Rings
Brian,
Yes, they can.
The plans call for rolled rings. I don't know
about the difference in structural integrity but I'm pretty sure it would be
more difficult to keep the hull round if you were dealing with separate
pieces in the hull.
I made my frames in a jig and got them round,
plus/minus 1/32, then slid them in the hull and flip them into
position. It's not that difficult if the hull is open on one end and
everything is round. It takes a hammer but not a BIG one.
No matter if you cut the part of the T
ring and made it from pieces or had it rolled, it would probably
be wise to weld the frame together in a jig and install it as a whole T
shaped ring.
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006
5:16 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350
Reinforcing Rings
Dan,
Can those
T's be cut into segments so that you can get them inside the cylinder more
easily? And then welded up once they're in place?
Brian
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006
08:02
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350
Reinforcing Rings
James,
There is no exactly. Any machine shop
that does some metal fabrication or any welding fabrication shop may
have a set of forming rolls. Some do and some
don't. Most that have rolls can roll the easy part of
the T, the top but not all can roll the hard part, the stem of the
T. You have to do some legwork and see what you have in your
area.
The cost.... It depends on the shop and how the
equipment they have fits the job. If it's easy for them maybe a
$120 for the set of them. I just have a three
foot long by three foot diameter tube rolled this week for $85.
Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, September 09,
2006 7:08 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
K-350 Reinforcing Rings
Exactly where would one get stiffeners? If I had to get them made
at the machine shop what would be a reasonable price for a
product like that?
-----Original Message----- From: Alec.Smyth@compuware.com To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org Sent:
Thu, 7 Sep 2006 11:15 AM Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350
Reinforcing Rings
Snoopy is a K-250, not a K-350. The two designs have different stiffeners; the
250 uses an L section and the 350 uses a T. The T is not only stronger, it is
also easier to fabricate. So if I were building any sub I would recommend T
stiffeners.
Alec
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org]
On Behalf Of James Frankland
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 10:50 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 Reinforcing Rings
Hi All.
Quick question regarding K-350 reinforcing rings.
Finally i've managed to get somewhere with ordering all my K-350 parts. I have
a company in the UK that have given me a quote and been very helpfull.
http://www.air-receivers.co.uk. £2550 for all the basic parts, which is
suprisingly well within my budget, and another company here in Guernsey Channel
Islands that i'm waiting for a final quote.
Before i place my order though, i wanted to ask about reinforcing ring design.
The plans show a "T" bar shape welded to the hull at the bottom of the T.
However i watched the PSUBS convention talk by Dan H when he built "Snoopy" and
he used a diferent shape and most subs that ive seen all seem to have square "n"
shaped bar.
Are any of these other shapes better/safer? Or shall i just stick rigidly to
the design?
Thanks all.
James
__________________________________________________________________________
Sent via Cable & Wireless Guernsey system at cwgsy.net
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