I have changed the design using three
cylindrical masses one is the press hull
illustrated as 100% size of hull I have yet to determine. the main tanks are made of little less than half of a pipe that is 75% the size of the hull. These are
ambient press tanks with drains on the bottom and vents at the top that serve as both vent and air inlet for blowing tanks. the bottom tank is 1
ATM. it is half of a pipe that is 50% the size of the main hull. the drain on the bottom of the tank has a valve for closing after trim has been adjusted. the top valve is also like the main tank and serves as both a vent and air inlet
source. Both main and trim tanks are
divided on both sides. Will this be
sufficient to keep the sub from turning on end from moving water and air when changing angle of sub using dive planes while driving? this sub will be designed to
cruise under its own power most of the time on using a
series of deep cycle marine batteries. four for the drive sys and two for
acc. by running two or one at a time will give me an idea of point of no return for drive system. before the first set become depleted just simply turn back and head to the dock. with a total of six batteries I am wondering if that will be too much weight? I was planning on a 36" press hull at a 10' or 12' length. After asking the question on rectangular
view ports I realized the err in my thinking. as the press would not be evenly displaced and would be focuses on the center of the view port. which brings me to ask, where can I get acrylic that thick and how much does it run. are there a!
ny conta
cts for making larger ones on a budget and how thick does one need to be for a 12" diameter view for the front? I know this is much to ask on one sitting but I will lay it out into an outline form next time.
Thanks much for the help Guys,
Chad Beller
East Tx
Hi, Chad - trim tanks need to be hard.
Ambient tanks will allow any entrained air to be compressed and you'll lose/gain
buoyancy like a dive vest/wet or dry suit.
If the rectangular view ports are for a surface
sail (ambient) they're fine. U/W put at least some simple curvature
in them to resist water pressure. Even then you'd need very thick plexi
and no sharp corners. Shallow depths you might get away with it. The
challenge here is pressure distribution across the window area.
Experiment with a few test runs of a cockpit
only. Ballast the cockpit and throw it into the salt chuck. Better
yet, dive down with it or have diving buddies observe it for you.
Empiricism goes a long way.
Cheers
Rick L
Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 4:55
AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] new hull
design
so are you saying use the ambiant tank for trim. I was thinking four trim
tanks and four four surface tanks that way I can trim at four points before
the dive to obtain neutral bouyancy and ballance the boat out. as for the
piping I was trying to do away with alot of external piping. not for any real
resone other than I don't want a bunch of external lines and pipes. I'm not
sure what you mean about deviding the two systems? the trim tanks will have a
drain valve that can be closed and the main surface tanks will vent out the
bottom. air will be inroduced to the tanks from the top of each. once the trim
tanks are set for the load the drain valve is closed and to surface all that
is needed is to fill or flood the main tanks to surface and dive. I was
attemting to streamline the boat also making it opperate more like an attack
sub with dive planes and a joystick control for the rear rudders so as to
operate like a sport sub or aircraft controls. here is a concept of line !
placement. and your oppinion on rectangular view ports would be? also is a
concept drawing for an earlier design based on the flying sub. the top one was
a weight trim design and the bottom one is a trim tank design. of coarse the
tanks would have to be changed top to bottom but I have abandoned this idea
for the other.
thankfully yours,
Chad Beller
east
tx
-----Original
Message-----
From: poulin.carrier@videotron.ca
To:
personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Sent: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 6:25 AM
Subject:
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] new hull design
Hello unnammed stranger,
A normal ballast system have 2 systems (like
yours) exept that one system is ambient (for surface) and the other system is
1atm (trim) so, as you said, the boyancy won't change as you go
deeper.
When I look at your system I don't see why you
devide your 2 systems since they will work the same way. I think it would work
the same if you only had 1 ambient system.
I also don't see how it could be simplier for the
piping.
Pierre Poulin
-----
Original Message -----
Sent:
Monday, September 04, 2006 2:42 AM
Subject:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] new hull design
all this talk about getting back to subs but everyone still
seems to be arguing over issues. I was waiting for a fist fight at the end
of this pissing contest then we can all hose the testosterone off the decks
and go on eh. I'm just a newbie so don't mind my little joke. I did have
some ques regarding a new design I am trying to come up with to minimize
exterior piping and make lines and valving simpler inside the hull. my trim
tanks will be a closed sys and I am not sure if this is necicary or not. I
was concerned with the air in my trim tanks loosing mass as I drive
deeper if I leave them ambiant which would cause my sub to become neg
boyant at depth. The other concern is that if the trim tanks are a closed
sys is the wall seperating the main tanks from the trim tanks need to be
reinforced? as for the other ques that I have had earlier I found a place I
should have known to look for affordable parts and sealed rotating
assemblies. grainger.com has ! a wide variety of parts for those interested
in looking. they also have a few co2 and o2 meters avalible and a wide
variety of hydrolic as well as peunamatic parts for fabrication.
any
thoughts on rectangular port view holes instead of round.