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If you are going to build a new hull anyhow, could
you instead increase the diameter of the sub to displace 5 extra kilos of water
and still use conventional methods of construction? You would also need to
displace the weight of the extra materials needed to create the larger hull or
you will still be sinking.
I would be leery of using home-cast aluminum on a sub as it
tends to be brittle and full of porosity (hollows).
Todd Fee
What diameter is the sub now? It's an ROV,
correct?
From: owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org [mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] On Behalf Of George Slaterpryce Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 3:15 PM To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Quick Casting question Say I have an aluminum tube/pipe that has a 5mm
wall. on the iside wall (the inside of the hull) the pattern attached to this
email is on it. with the raised areas (the black bar) "replacing" the need for
bracing straps. think of the white spaces as being 3mm "deep" so that the
majority of the hull would be 2mm thick, but the waffle pattern behind it would
make it 5mm thick in places providing "bracing" built right into the hull. Thus
saving me time/money and weight... I really need to trim ~5kilos of my latest
bugeye design somewhere. I cut it way too close for BugEye II and it was
slightly negatively bouyant.
George H. Slaterpryce III
www.captovis.com ----- Original Message -----
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