Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] hatch rings

["Adam Lawrence" <adteleka@in-tch.com>]

Whatever isn't stainless, paint. I'm not sure what you are saying.

Adam



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Cox" <ojaibees@ojai.net>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] hatch rings


> If I did do a stainless overlay on one of the sides, or maybe both , would
it only be welded on the edges?  If so, would that non welded area between
the stainless and the carbon steel cause any problems?
>
> Brian
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Adam Lawrence" <adteleka@in-tch.com>
> To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 7:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] hatch rings
>
>
> > Weld a stainless overlay on both surfaces and then machine them.
> >
> > Adam
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Dan H." <jmachine@adelphia.net>
> > To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 6:18 AM
> > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] hatch rings
> >
> >
> > > Brian,
> > >
> > > Your hatch cover being stainless isn't as important as the hatch ring
it
> > > mates to.  Your most likely going to be placing your O-ring groove in
the
> > > hatch cover and it will stay there.  You can make that part out of
carbon
> > > steel and paint it.  True, stainless would be better, but as you
mentioned
> > > it's pricey.  Your $156 dollar ring would be over $400 in stainless.
> > >
> > > The mating ring, conning tower top, is much better in stainless since
it's
> > > what your going to be stepping on and dragging things in and out over.
> > > Paint will get scratched there and cause you problems.  Also the
O-ring
> > has
> > > to make a good seal on it every time you close the hatch.
> > >
> > > If your watching you budget, stay with the carbon steel ring you have
> > > already ordered but do order a stainless ring for the top of your
conning
> > > tower.  One note, when machining the O-ring groove don't forget to
allow a
> > > few thousants on each surface for paint build up.
> > >
> > > Dan H.
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Brian Cox" <ojaibees@ojai.net>
> > > To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 12:34 AM
> > > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] hatch rings
> > >
> > >
> > > > I think I may have made an error when designing this hatch.  My plan
was
> > > to build just the hatch and then seal off the bottom part and then
take
> > off
> > > our coast here and drop it down to about 1200' or( 365 meters) to see
if
> > it
> > > would hold together.  I'm mainly curious about the acrylic dounut.
> > > Origionally I was thinking that the whole assembly would be the hatch
but
> > > upon further thought that seemed like it would be too heavy to handle
so I
> > > decided to split the hatch above the acrylic dounut so just the top
steel
> > > hemisphere would open.  This is the drawing I posted a while back
> > > http://www.prismnet.com/~moki/20040309.103505/hatchXdrawing.jpg  .
The
> > > bummer part is that I just ordered a ring 24" OD by 20" ID and .75
thick
> > > A516 - 70  which I was planning to weld onto the 20" (508mm)
hemisphere.
> > > Since when that ring gets welded onto the hemisphere there is going to
be
> > a
> > > lot of warping of the ring and it will have to be machined flat so it
> > seems
> > > like you would need enough metal so!
> > > >   that once you're done machining it is still thick enough to be
strong.
> > > If I had to use stainless steel for that ring I bet that would be
really
> > > expensive.  The 24" od  by  20" id  by .75" thick is going to run me
> > $156.00
> > > would it be possible to weld a piece of 1/4" stainless onto the
thicker
> > > piece or would you still have the problem of warping ?
> > > >
> > > > Brian
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Carsten Standfuss" <MerlinSub@t-online.de>
> > > > To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2004 2:06 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] hatch rings
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I would say: Yes.
> > > > >
> > > > > In the year 2004 hatches rings and troughull connetors should be
made
> > > > > from stainless steel. Corrosion on this parts can be really
expensive
> > > > > over the years. Maintance time is also an issue.
> > > > >
> > > > > regards Carsten
> > > > >
> > > > > > Brian Cox schrieb:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Do the hatch rings need to be stainless
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>