[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior paint



Oh, not in for being the main course, are we? Well shucks, I'll find a use for that 55 gallon drum of tabasco sauce I bought Flipper, I'm sure.... :D

A trickle charge going into the water isn't anything to worry about really. I recall when I did some work for the state fish and game fisheries division they used a generator to attract fish. stick the hot wire on the boat and the ground in the water and watch them babies come! And it was only enough voltage to let you know it was on if you stuck your hand in the water.
Carl



Dan H. wrote:

Carl,
No doubt there will be some electrical emissions from my sub.  Some from
electrolytic action and some from equipment inside.  All my electrical
systems, except leak detection, has it's own power return circuit, above
ground.  It does not connect to the hull at all.  The leak detection circuit
has so little current flow when dry that it shouldn't be a factor.  I doubt
a freshly painted sub mini will have much more of an electrical field then
the big hull's that are sunk all along the coast.

Actually,  attracting fish would be pretty interesting, as long as their
jaws don't open over six feet and their not hungry for yellow painted steel.
;-)

Dan H.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Coalbunny" <coalbunny@vcn.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 9:52 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior paint



I'd be concerned with emitting any electricity from the craft as
electricity attracts fish.  Unless you want to go fishing, that is.
Carl


Dan H. wrote:


Bob,

You seem to know what your talking about when it comes to corrosion.

I've seen anodes on some out boards and understand the principle but
don't really have a handle on what I need.

My K-350 will be ready for launch soon so it's time for me to get the
anodes I need.  I have a painted carbon steel hull with several pieces
of stainless steel mounted to it, two aluminum props and one bronze
prop. A real pea soup when it comes to corrosion.  Most of the time I'll
be diving in fresh water but sometimes sea water.  I doubt it will stay
in the water for more then a day or two at a time.

If your familiar with the K-350 design and size, can you give me an idea
of the size anodes I need and where to best place them?

Thanks, Dan H.

   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Bob Duncan <mailto:katsurencho@yahoo.com>
   To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
   <mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
   Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 7:44 PM
   Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Interior paint (was: Scuttle valve)

   To add to my last e-mail. I would like to talk a little about
   corrosion and corrosion control. Which is usually the primary
   purpose of a coating system (corrosion control). It takes 4 things
   to make corrosion: An Anode, a Cathode, a metal path, and an
   electrolyte. Oxygen is the primary electrolyte. Oxygen is contained
   in water, and of course a normal atmosphere. The salt in sea air
   (not only sea water) is a strong electrolyte.
    The easiest and most common method of corrosion control is to put a
   barricade on the metal surfaces to prevent the electrolyte from
   contacting the metals (anode and cathode). Since any structural
   metal is an alloy ie: steel is an alloy of Iron and Carbon you
   alread have an anode and cathode in contact with each other. We
   can't prevent this.
     There are charts available in corrosion control manuals, or
   corrosion engineer manuals that list how far apart metals are from
   being the cathode or the anode. The anode gives up electrons or is
   the one to rust away (if you don't mind these terms "rust") We put
   zinc anodes on steel ships to save the steel. The zinc anode is
   eaten away instead of the steel, then as a rule of thumb, the zinc
   anode is replace when it is half gone.
     Anytime you put a metal fastener thru metal, you again create a
   corrosion problem. As the fastener is seldom the same alloy as the
   material it is holding together.
       I'll try to keep this short, and simple !!!
     When you add electricity to the system, you have more electron
   flow, and increase you potential for a corrosion problem. It's very
   difficult to keep electricity out of a modern boat!

      Once all the metal is welded it is probably (possibly depending
   on the situation and design) the best time to clean the surface.
   Apply a chemical conversion if you are going to, prime the surface
   and apply a top coat. Then add the systems. It is very important to
   coat all metals used in the marine industry. There are few
   exceptions, one being that when you use an anode (such as zinc on
   steel) that the contact surface be bare. As it wouldn't do much good
   to put the zinc on a painted (or coated) steel surface.

      Corrosion control is an ongoing war in the marine industry.

      Bob



   Bob Duncan <katsurencho@yahoo.com> wrote:

       Hello,
         I would think that if it is an ambient pressure submarine,
       that you should be able to use the same kind of coating that is
       used in hyperbaric chambers.
         For a 1ATM submarine, i would use epoxy or polyurethane primer
       and topcoat. We dont' use the word paint, because paint is a
       decorative, and these are a coating system. I'm sure you will
       have a fair amount of condensation, on the inside of the boat.

         bob

       Michael B Holt <tlohm@juno.com> wrote:

           On Mon, 8 Mar 2004 15:05:26 -0800 Steven Mills writes:
            >
            >I had not thought of water-proofing the interior, but it
           makes sense.
            >Paint or plastic? Would there be residual out-gassing over
           time from
            >the plastic if one used spray-on vinyl like used in beds
           of pick-up
            >trucks?
            >What would be the curing time of paint versus plastic?

           Hey, let's talk about this. What sort of paint can be used
           safely on the interior of any sealed cabin? Some paints
           have an odor that lasts for a long time.



           Mike





________________________________________________________________

           The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno

SpeedBand!

           Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
           Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!



       Fact is stranger than fiction. Truth is stronger than fact. R.
       Dun! can


  ------------------------------------------------------------------------

       Do you Yahoo!?
       Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster.
       <http://search.yahoo.com/?fr=ad-mailsig-home>



   Fact is stranger than fiction. Truth is stronger than fact. R.

Duncan

  ------------------------------------------------------------------------

   Do you Yahoo!?
   Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster.
   <http://search.yahoo.com/?fr=ad-mailsig-home>

--
"By the side of religion, by the side of science, by the side of poetry,
stands natural beauty.  Not as a rival to these, but as the common
inspirer and nourisher of them all." -- G. M. Trevelyan







--
"By the side of religion, by the side of science, by the side of poetry, stands natural beauty. Not as a rival to these, but as the common inspirer and nourisher of them all." -- G. M. Trevelyan