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Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
Thanks for the info!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 9:55 PM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> Brian, I am at work on the north slope right now. I can send you a
picture
> when I get home. It is simple design though. I just stripped two wires
> and stuck them into a piece of cardboard to keep them from moving. Set the
> stainless fitting over them ensuring they did not touch the sides of the
> fitting or each other, then filled it up with non conductive two part
epoxy.
> The epoxy I used is rated for 2500 psi and you can buy it at Napa. The
> fitting I used was a swagelok 1/2" female to 1/2 male so there is a
shoulder
> inside already. I scuffed up the wires and inside of the fitting with
sand
> paper then cleaned every thing with electro clean. Just make sure that the
> shoulder inside the fitting is pointed towards the high pressure. I don't
> know about cable though. I am going to use hydraulic trim rams for my
> steering system. I haven't decided if the system is going to be a closed
> loop or if I'm going to use the electric hydraulic pump that is used for
the
> trim cylinders. I'm also the new kid on the block. I'm still design the
> sub as of yet. This time home I'm building the c02 scrubber. I am
> acquiring a 40' section of 52" pipe for the hull. I will only be using
15'
> of it though.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian Cox [mailto:ojaibees@ojai.net]
> Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 5:50 AM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
>
>
> Ya, I guess I didn't mean to say "sealed bearing" what I was getting at
was
> what is the SOP for some of these penetrations. Being the new kid on the
> block here and still minus some of the books on the book list (can't find
> "Manned submersibles" anywhere) I'm missing some vital information. Troy,
> if you could snap some pictures of that connector you're talking about
that
> would be great! On my Flying sub that I'm designing I'm planning on using
> stainless cables to control the ailerons (or would that be hydrolons?).
So
> I need basically a couple of shafts to penitrate the hull. And of coarse
> all the other penetrations that need to happen as well. I remember
reading
> in Nat Geo (April '64) when Cousteau was operating his underwater habitat
> that they had the problem of losing air up the phone line or maybe a power
> line. -Brian
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com>
> To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 5:43 AM
> Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
>
>
> > I wasn't going to run it in a pod. Just tap into the original housing
with
> > the balance line. The housing already has a seal that holds out water.
Or
> > am I slill way off base.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dan H. [mailto:JMachine@adelphia.net]
> > Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 4:24 AM
> > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> >
> >
> > Troy / Brian
> > As you noted, you can't just run a sealed bearing, but there are proper
> > seals available. Depending on the depth you are designing for, there
are
> > several seals available. Even a simple O-ring will work, although it's
> > life is not long. For most subs in the Psub range, a carbon and ceramic
> > pump seal will work well. They start at around $10 US and go to around
> $40
> > US and are a bit bulky. Most water pumps use them.
> >
> > Motors in sealed pods with carbon ceramic seals is the method used on a
> > K-250, K-350 and K-600. (to 600 feet of depth) I don't think you can
> just
> > put a trolling motor in a pod though. Trolling motors are physically
> quite
> > small for their power output. This tells me that they require quite a
lot
> > of cooling. When submerged in water, the water acts a large heat sink
for
> > these motors. If placed in a pod the pod jacket would stay cool but I
> fear
> > the motor inside will get quite hot and burn up not being in direct
> contact
> > with the water itself. You should probably contact the motors
manufacture
> > about its cooling requirements.
> >
> > If designing a motor in a pod, it must be a motor rated to run in air,
at
> > the voltage, and with the load your prop is applying.
> >
> > Good luck, Dan H.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com>
> > To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> > Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 2:15 AM
> > Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> >
> >
> > > I'm not sure but sealed bearings don't handle much pressure. How much,
I
> > > don't know. I was thinking of just using a used troller motor and
just
> > tap
> > > into the case with the balance line. The advantage of using the
troller
> > > motors that I can see is that you get all the controls for them. As
far
> > as
> > > electrical penetrations go I just made my own last night using a
> > stainless
> > > fitting that had a shoulder inside filled with epoxy. I stripped two
> > solid
> > > wires and stuck them through the fitting. I tested the fitting to
2400
> > psi
> > > with a hydraulic enerpack. Held fine.
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Brian Cox [mailto:ojaibees@ojai.net]
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 7:46 AM
> > > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi, Can't the motor be encased in it's own 1 atm. vessel and the
shaft
> > run
> > > through a sealed bearing?
> > >
> > > Brian
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com>
> > > To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 2:51 AM
> > > Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> > >
> > >
> > > > This might have been discussed before. But I am wondering if anybody
> has
> > > > used a sensing line from the top of their trim ballast to pressure
> > > > compensate their motors. This way it is all done automatically.
The
> > only
> > > > drawback that I can see is water getting into the sensing line.
This
> > can
> > > be
> > > > mitigated by positioning the blow down line well below the sensing
> line,
> > > so
> > > > the water doesn't reach the sensing line.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>