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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
Brian, I am at work on the north slope right now. I can send you a picture
when I get home. It is simple design though. I just stripped two wires
and stuck them into a piece of cardboard to keep them from moving. Set the
stainless fitting over them ensuring they did not touch the sides of the
fitting or each other, then filled it up with non conductive two part epoxy.
The epoxy I used is rated for 2500 psi and you can buy it at Napa. The
fitting I used was a swagelok 1/2" female to 1/2 male so there is a shoulder
inside already. I scuffed up the wires and inside of the fitting with sand
paper then cleaned every thing with electro clean. Just make sure that the
shoulder inside the fitting is pointed towards the high pressure. I don't
know about cable though. I am going to use hydraulic trim rams for my
steering system. I haven't decided if the system is going to be a closed
loop or if I'm going to use the electric hydraulic pump that is used for the
trim cylinders. I'm also the new kid on the block. I'm still design the
sub as of yet. This time home I'm building the c02 scrubber. I am
acquiring a 40' section of 52" pipe for the hull. I will only be using 15'
of it though.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Cox [mailto:ojaibees@ojai.net]
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 5:50 AM
To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
Ya, I guess I didn't mean to say "sealed bearing" what I was getting at was
what is the SOP for some of these penetrations. Being the new kid on the
block here and still minus some of the books on the book list (can't find
"Manned submersibles" anywhere) I'm missing some vital information. Troy,
if you could snap some pictures of that connector you're talking about that
would be great! On my Flying sub that I'm designing I'm planning on using
stainless cables to control the ailerons (or would that be hydrolons?). So
I need basically a couple of shafts to penitrate the hull. And of coarse
all the other penetrations that need to happen as well. I remember reading
in Nat Geo (April '64) when Cousteau was operating his underwater habitat
that they had the problem of losing air up the phone line or maybe a power
line. -Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com>
To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 5:43 AM
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> I wasn't going to run it in a pod. Just tap into the original housing with
> the balance line. The housing already has a seal that holds out water. Or
> am I slill way off base.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan H. [mailto:JMachine@adelphia.net]
> Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 4:24 AM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
>
>
> Troy / Brian
> As you noted, you can't just run a sealed bearing, but there are proper
> seals available. Depending on the depth you are designing for, there are
> several seals available. Even a simple O-ring will work, although it's
> life is not long. For most subs in the Psub range, a carbon and ceramic
> pump seal will work well. They start at around $10 US and go to around
$40
> US and are a bit bulky. Most water pumps use them.
>
> Motors in sealed pods with carbon ceramic seals is the method used on a
> K-250, K-350 and K-600. (to 600 feet of depth) I don't think you can
just
> put a trolling motor in a pod though. Trolling motors are physically
quite
> small for their power output. This tells me that they require quite a lot
> of cooling. When submerged in water, the water acts a large heat sink for
> these motors. If placed in a pod the pod jacket would stay cool but I
fear
> the motor inside will get quite hot and burn up not being in direct
contact
> with the water itself. You should probably contact the motors manufacture
> about its cooling requirements.
>
> If designing a motor in a pod, it must be a motor rated to run in air, at
> the voltage, and with the load your prop is applying.
>
> Good luck, Dan H.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com>
> To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 2:15 AM
> Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
>
>
> > I'm not sure but sealed bearings don't handle much pressure. How much, I
> > don't know. I was thinking of just using a used troller motor and just
> tap
> > into the case with the balance line. The advantage of using the troller
> > motors that I can see is that you get all the controls for them. As far
> as
> > electrical penetrations go I just made my own last night using a
> stainless
> > fitting that had a shoulder inside filled with epoxy. I stripped two
> solid
> > wires and stuck them through the fitting. I tested the fitting to 2400
> psi
> > with a hydraulic enerpack. Held fine.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Brian Cox [mailto:ojaibees@ojai.net]
> > Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 7:46 AM
> > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> >
> >
> > Hi, Can't the motor be encased in it's own 1 atm. vessel and the shaft
> run
> > through a sealed bearing?
> >
> > Brian
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com>
> > To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 2:51 AM
> > Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> >
> >
> > > This might have been discussed before. But I am wondering if anybody
has
> > > used a sensing line from the top of their trim ballast to pressure
> > > compensate their motors. This way it is all done automatically. The
> only
> > > drawback that I can see is water getting into the sensing line. This
> can
> > be
> > > mitigated by positioning the blow down line well below the sensing
line,
> > so
> > > the water doesn't reach the sensing line.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>