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RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
If you would be willing to share any scrubber design
details you may develop with the OSS group, we would
very much appreciate that. Also, has anyone tried that
scrubber material in sheet form? Even if it was more
expensive it could be worth it, since it would be far
simpler to build and maintain.
Warren.
--- "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com> wrote:
> Brian, I am at work on the north slope right now. I
> can send you a picture
> when I get home. It is simple design though. I
> just stripped two wires
> and stuck them into a piece of cardboard to keep
> them from moving. Set the
> stainless fitting over them ensuring they did not
> touch the sides of the
> fitting or each other, then filled it up with non
> conductive two part epoxy.
> The epoxy I used is rated for 2500 psi and you can
> buy it at Napa. The
> fitting I used was a swagelok 1/2" female to 1/2
> male so there is a shoulder
> inside already. I scuffed up the wires and inside
> of the fitting with sand
> paper then cleaned every thing with electro clean.
> Just make sure that the
> shoulder inside the fitting is pointed towards the
> high pressure. I don't
> know about cable though. I am going to use
> hydraulic trim rams for my
> steering system. I haven't decided if the system is
> going to be a closed
> loop or if I'm going to use the electric hydraulic
> pump that is used for the
> trim cylinders. I'm also the new kid on the block.
> I'm still design the
> sub as of yet. This time home I'm building the c02
> scrubber. I am
> acquiring a 40' section of 52" pipe for the hull. I
> will only be using 15'
> of it though.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian Cox [mailto:ojaibees@ojai.net]
> Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 5:50 AM
> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
>
>
> Ya, I guess I didn't mean to say "sealed bearing"
> what I was getting at was
> what is the SOP for some of these penetrations.
> Being the new kid on the
> block here and still minus some of the books on the
> book list (can't find
> "Manned submersibles" anywhere) I'm missing some
> vital information. Troy,
> if you could snap some pictures of that connector
> you're talking about that
> would be great! On my Flying sub that I'm designing
> I'm planning on using
> stainless cables to control the ailerons (or would
> that be hydrolons?). So
> I need basically a couple of shafts to penitrate
> the hull. And of coarse
> all the other penetrations that need to happen as
> well. I remember reading
> in Nat Geo (April '64) when Cousteau was operating
> his underwater habitat
> that they had the problem of losing air up the phone
> line or maybe a power
> line. -Brian
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com>
> To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 5:43 AM
> Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
>
>
> > I wasn't going to run it in a pod. Just tap into
> the original housing with
> > the balance line. The housing already has a seal
> that holds out water. Or
> > am I slill way off base.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dan H. [mailto:JMachine@adelphia.net]
> > Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 4:24 AM
> > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> >
> >
> > Troy / Brian
> > As you noted, you can't just run a sealed bearing,
> but there are proper
> > seals available. Depending on the depth you are
> designing for, there are
> > several seals available. Even a simple O-ring
> will work, although it's
> > life is not long. For most subs in the Psub
> range, a carbon and ceramic
> > pump seal will work well. They start at around
> $10 US and go to around
> $40
> > US and are a bit bulky. Most water pumps use
> them.
> >
> > Motors in sealed pods with carbon ceramic seals is
> the method used on a
> > K-250, K-350 and K-600. (to 600 feet of depth) I
> don't think you can
> just
> > put a trolling motor in a pod though. Trolling
> motors are physically
> quite
> > small for their power output. This tells me that
> they require quite a lot
> > of cooling. When submerged in water, the water
> acts a large heat sink for
> > these motors. If placed in a pod the pod jacket
> would stay cool but I
> fear
> > the motor inside will get quite hot and burn up
> not being in direct
> contact
> > with the water itself. You should probably
> contact the motors manufacture
> > about its cooling requirements.
> >
> > If designing a motor in a pod, it must be a motor
> rated to run in air, at
> > the voltage, and with the load your prop is
> applying.
> >
> > Good luck, Dan H.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com>
> > To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> > Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 2:15 AM
> > Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> >
> >
> > > I'm not sure but sealed bearings don't handle
> much pressure. How much, I
> > > don't know. I was thinking of just using a used
> troller motor and just
> > tap
> > > into the case with the balance line. The
> advantage of using the troller
> > > motors that I can see is that you get all the
> controls for them. As far
> > as
> > > electrical penetrations go I just made my own
> last night using a
> > stainless
> > > fitting that had a shoulder inside filled with
> epoxy. I stripped two
> > solid
> > > wires and stuck them through the fitting. I
> tested the fitting to 2400
> > psi
> > > with a hydraulic enerpack. Held fine.
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Brian Cox [mailto:ojaibees@ojai.net]
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 7:46 AM
> > > To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org
> > > Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi, Can't the motor be encased in it's own 1
> atm. vessel and the shaft
> > run
> > > through a sealed bearing?
> > >
> > > Brian
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Helmandollar, Troy A" <HelmanTA@bp.com>
> > > To: <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
> > > Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 2:51 AM
> > > Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Troller motors
> > >
> > >
> > > > This might have been discussed before. But I
> am wondering if anybody
> has
> > > > used a sensing line from the top of their trim
> ballast to pressure
> > > > compensate their motors. This way it is all
> done automatically. The
> > only
> > > > drawback that I can see is water getting into
> the sensing line. This
> > can
> > > be
> > > > mitigated by positioning the blow down line
> well below the sensing
> line,
> > > so
> > > > the water doesn't reach the sensing line.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
=== message truncated ===
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