[Date Prev][Date Next]
[Chronological]
[Thread]
[Top]
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] re-wiring trolling motors?
Ken,
I am not quite sure to understand what you mean by 
"controller", because there is not much electronic inside the lower unit of a 
MG. please elaborate.
MK lower unit has only red and black wires going 
into the lower unit, an electronic board is in the top housing for speed 
controls
MG lower unit has 5 leads going inside, there is an 
electronic module for speed control in the top housing, like in MK, and a brush 
card inside the lower unit on which are connected the wires and a Dura amp 
module.
In my case since I do not use the electronic module 
i use only the red and black wires. The other wires that I leave free are 
normally used for speed control and sonar noise reduction.
I install my motor far enough from the sonar so are 
not affected by magnetic noise. 
I also prefer the 3 blade MG prop on the 2 blade 
MK.
Herve Jaubert
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  
  
  Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 2:01 
  PM
  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] re-wiring 
  trolling motors?
  
This subject is a lot more interesting than Busby 
  as long as we don't get 
into flame wars on whether MK or MG motors are 
  better. 
I would prefer the MK motors without the motor controller 
  built into the 
motor as the Motor Guide is reputed to do. I'm sure the 
  cost of the motor and 
controller built as one unit is more expensive than 
  separate units from a 
replacement viewpoint. Since I did my own 
  controller, this made the most 
sense from a $ viewpoint. It would seem to 
  me that having the controller 
built into the motor would offer much better 
  cooling for the electronics but 
at the same time would expose the 
  controller electronics to motor flooding. 
Better cooling of the 
  electronics should equate for improved reliability for 
the MG electronics 
  but at increased replacement cost and potentially lower 
reliability for 
  flooding problems, even if they pot the electronics. I only 
paid $169 for 
  my 70# thrust MK motor. So the MK electronics have less cooling 
but are 
  separate units. Replacement of only the motor or controller makes 
sense to 
  me. 
Problems due to flooding or high moisture usually takes a long 
  time to show 
up. 
I do think that except for the placement of the 
  controller and secondary 
considerations the two vendors are nearly 
  equivalent. It's like discussing 
which is better, a Chevy or a Ford 
  Pickup. They have to be able to do the 
same things, reliably and at nearly 
  the same cost. 
For reasons of stator demagnetization, most PM motors 
  operating from 24 volts 
and up probably require controllers. 
On 
  the increase in speed for a 107 pound thrust versus a 101 pound thrust. 
  
Based on speed as a function of the cube root of horsepower (close enough 
  at 
these speeds) the 107 pound thrust motor should give a higher speed by 
  about 
1.9%. At a speed of about 5 knots this would increase the sub's 
  speed by less 
than 0.09 knots, big difference. 
Ken Martindale 
  
In a message dated 11/26/00 10:08:45 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
  
caribsub@coqui.net writes: 
  Other adavantage is the cost, less expensive since you don t 
    need the upper 
unit, if you were interested I sale lower units MG 107 
    alone , forward and 
reverse, 36 / 24 Volts, plus the stainless steel 
    shaft, plus the sacrificial 
anode to be mounted on the shaft and the 
    prop kit for only $280, not 
including shipping via UPS or check with 
    your motor dealer, but this 
solution is the most cost efficient.