[PSUBS-MAILIST] cable fittings

Sat Jun 20 13:55:47 EDT 2020

I have them down to call with that number on Monday.
Thanks
Rick

On Sat, Jun 20, 2020 at 4:32 AM Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Rick, have you research the Conax PG series? I am using PG5-500-A-N to
> pass a 2 wire jacketed cable from my rear thruster through the hull. They
> offer a pretty good variety in this series.
>
> On Mon, Jun 15, 2020, 1:28 PM Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> Just called Sealcon to confirm how they rate their strain relief fittings
>> and they base it on line pull so the ones I have won't work. they said that
>> they also sell a cable clip that attaches to the cable on the pressure side
>> to keep it from extruding so I might but one of them and do some testing to
>> see if this will be an option or not.
>> jRick
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 6:00 AM Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Ian,
>>>
>>> https://www.macartney.com/what-we-offer/systems-and-products/connectors/subconn/
>>> I'm not sure how you get Psub discount. I got some through Jon the
>>> facilitator / owner
>>> of the group a long time ago.
>>> He normally reads the emails & will comment if you have a question.
>>> There may be an email link to Jon, or more info on the Psub web site.
>>> He's based in NY, so just a submarine ride away!
>>> Cheers Alan
>>>
>>> On 10/06/2020, at 1:07 AM, Ian Juby via Personal_Submersibles <
>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>> :O  That's them!  Subcon eh? I'll look them up. Psubs gets a discount?
>>> How does that work?
>>>
>>> Ian
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 6:46 PM Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks Ian,
>>>> I have those type of penetrators (below). Psubs gets a discount from
>>>> subConn
>>>> that makes them.
>>>> Would be a bit difficult making them yourself & the bought ones have a
>>>> securing
>>>> device so they can't pull apart ( orange thing in photo).
>>>> I agree that there wouldn't be much call for wet mating them, & that it
>>>> would just
>>>> be an opportunity for corrosion.
>>>> Alan
>>>>
>>>> <image1.JPG>
>>>>
>>>> On 9/06/2020, at 5:43 AM, Ian Juby via Personal_Submersibles <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Rick,
>>>> I saw your post and wanted to ask if you meant electrical or plumbing
>>>> through hull connections. So I'm glad you reposted because I haven't been
>>>> able to follow the thread, nor have I had the time to go back and look
>>>> stuff up.
>>>> When I was working R&D on our diver heater system, we used a watertight
>>>> bulkhead connector for the shot line and remote control. Unfortunately,
>>>> this was over 20 years ago and I was not the one who actually ordered the
>>>> connector. So I innernets'd some pictures to try and hopefully find it
>>>> again because I remember quite well what it looked like, its design and
>>>> construction. The closest thing I could find was Teledyne Marine's "Wet
>>>> mate" connectors:
>>>> http://www.teledynemarine.com/electrical-wet-mate-connectors/
>>>> I couldn't tell you the price, but I'm sure they weren't cheap. For my
>>>> ROV project, I'm still in the rough design phase and I keep increasing its
>>>> depth capabilities. So I'm just going to make my own through-hull
>>>> connectors, and they will be similar to this design.
>>>> The through-hull seal is accomplished by a simple and reliable o-ring
>>>> (which doesn't appear in teledyne's picture). Basically, the rubber
>>>> connector body is mounted to a brass threaded tube that goes through the
>>>> bulkhead. The brass threaded tube has a seat for an o-ring which gets
>>>> compressed by both the nut and external water pressure. Here, I drew a
>>>> pretty picture:
>>>>
>>>> <bulkhead connector.jpg>
>>>> I just realized I didn't mark the brass tube, but it's the part that
>>>> goes through the bulkhead.
>>>> The particular connector we were using only needed to go to like, 300
>>>> feet. I believe we tested the heater unit to 300 psi and ironically, it was
>>>> the swagelock fittings inside the unit that leaked - that electrical
>>>> connector never leaked. We had I think 8 electrical connections passing
>>>> through that? We could get the identical connector as a straight-through
>>>> connector, and not an angled connector like my drawing.
>>>> The pins and sockets were the solid style - in other words there was no
>>>> splits to allow for expansion or contraction of the sockets or pins. This
>>>> further added to the waterproof nature as now the wire (a possible leak
>>>> point) was buried in solid rubber, behind a solid metal socket which itself
>>>> was buried in solid rubber. Any water wicking along would have to travel
>>>> 1/2" along the metal/rubber just to get past the socket.
>>>> The connector body was a hard rubber, both the through-bulkhead block
>>>> and the male connector. Under high pressures, the water can wick along the
>>>> inside of the wires (between the copper and the outer insulation) or if you
>>>> pass the wire through say, silicone rubber, it can wick along the junction
>>>> of the outside of the wire and the encasing rubber. So the longer that
>>>> travel distance is, the higher the pressure needs to be to force water
>>>> through those avenues. That rubber block was only maybe 2 inches left to
>>>> right in my drawing. I don't remember what pressures or depths it was rated
>>>> for, but I guarantee you it could take a LOT of pressure. Mechanically
>>>> (because the bulkhead hole was small) and in keeping watertight. The
>>>> biggest risk for a leak was if the bulkhead got a scratch where the o-ring
>>>> seated against it. I have no doubt that connector could have taken
>>>> hydraulic pressures (thousands of PSI).
>>>> I did not draw this in my pretty picture, but the head of the brass
>>>> tube probably had multiple rings inside the rubber, both to get good
>>>> mechanical locking between the rubber body and the brass body, and to make
>>>> the greatest distance the water would have to travel to get around from
>>>> outside to inside the tube, if it were to wick along the junction between
>>>> brass and rubber. But I'm speculating there because I didn't cut one of
>>>> those connector$ open to find out. Lest I get fired and stuff for
>>>> destroying a connector worth hundreds of dollars, you know.  :D Just, when
>>>> I go to make my own connectors, I'll be making the mounting tube like that,
>>>> for those reasons. The rubber that made up the connector body filled
>>>> everything, including right to the bottom of the brass tube.
>>>> The nice thing about making your own connector as well is that you can
>>>> make the electrical pins, sockets and wires any size you want to match your
>>>> electrical current needs.
>>>>
>>>> These particular connectors could be plugged and unplugged underwater,
>>>> but I suspect it would be very difficult to do as it would have to displace
>>>> water or vacuum from the connector holes. But as you can see, the male pins
>>>> had insulating rubber for a part of their length to maximize the distance
>>>> the electricity would have to travel from pin to pin, thus maximizing the
>>>> electrical resistance from pin to pin as well.
>>>> Hope that helps,
>>>> Ian
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 12:09 PM Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
>>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I posted the other day about cable threw hull water tight fittings and
>>>>> only got one response back and was hoping for more feed back as I know most
>>>>> of you probably don't make your own so for the ones that buy them, is Blue
>>>>> Globe the only player out there besides sealcon?
>>>>> Thanks
>>>>> Rick
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