[PSUBS-MAILIST] cable fittings

Sat Jun 20 10:31:51 EDT 2020

Rick, have you research the Conax PG series? I am using PG5-500-A-N to pass
a 2 wire jacketed cable from my rear thruster through the hull. They offer
a pretty good variety in this series.

On Mon, Jun 15, 2020, 1:28 PM Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Just called Sealcon to confirm how they rate their strain relief fittings
> and they base it on line pull so the ones I have won't work. they said that
> they also sell a cable clip that attaches to the cable on the pressure side
> to keep it from extruding so I might but one of them and do some testing to
> see if this will be an option or not.
> jRick
>
> On Tue, Jun 9, 2020 at 6:00 AM Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>> Ian,
>>
>> https://www.macartney.com/what-we-offer/systems-and-products/connectors/subconn/
>> I'm not sure how you get Psub discount. I got some through Jon the
>> facilitator / owner
>> of the group a long time ago.
>> He normally reads the emails & will comment if you have a question.
>> There may be an email link to Jon, or more info on the Psub web site.
>> He's based in NY, so just a submarine ride away!
>> Cheers Alan
>>
>> On 10/06/2020, at 1:07 AM, Ian Juby via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>> :O  That's them!  Subcon eh? I'll look them up. Psubs gets a discount?
>> How does that work?
>>
>> Ian
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 6:46 PM Alan via Personal_Submersibles <
>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Ian,
>>> I have those type of penetrators (below). Psubs gets a discount from
>>> subConn
>>> that makes them.
>>> Would be a bit difficult making them yourself & the bought ones have a
>>> securing
>>> device so they can't pull apart ( orange thing in photo).
>>> I agree that there wouldn't be much call for wet mating them, & that it
>>> would just
>>> be an opportunity for corrosion.
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> <image1.JPG>
>>>
>>> On 9/06/2020, at 5:43 AM, Ian Juby via Personal_Submersibles <
>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Rick,
>>> I saw your post and wanted to ask if you meant electrical or plumbing
>>> through hull connections. So I'm glad you reposted because I haven't been
>>> able to follow the thread, nor have I had the time to go back and look
>>> stuff up.
>>> When I was working R&D on our diver heater system, we used a watertight
>>> bulkhead connector for the shot line and remote control. Unfortunately,
>>> this was over 20 years ago and I was not the one who actually ordered the
>>> connector. So I innernets'd some pictures to try and hopefully find it
>>> again because I remember quite well what it looked like, its design and
>>> construction. The closest thing I could find was Teledyne Marine's "Wet
>>> mate" connectors:
>>> http://www.teledynemarine.com/electrical-wet-mate-connectors/
>>> I couldn't tell you the price, but I'm sure they weren't cheap. For my
>>> ROV project, I'm still in the rough design phase and I keep increasing its
>>> depth capabilities. So I'm just going to make my own through-hull
>>> connectors, and they will be similar to this design.
>>> The through-hull seal is accomplished by a simple and reliable o-ring
>>> (which doesn't appear in teledyne's picture). Basically, the rubber
>>> connector body is mounted to a brass threaded tube that goes through the
>>> bulkhead. The brass threaded tube has a seat for an o-ring which gets
>>> compressed by both the nut and external water pressure. Here, I drew a
>>> pretty picture:
>>>
>>> <bulkhead connector.jpg>
>>> I just realized I didn't mark the brass tube, but it's the part that
>>> goes through the bulkhead.
>>> The particular connector we were using only needed to go to like, 300
>>> feet. I believe we tested the heater unit to 300 psi and ironically, it was
>>> the swagelock fittings inside the unit that leaked - that electrical
>>> connector never leaked. We had I think 8 electrical connections passing
>>> through that? We could get the identical connector as a straight-through
>>> connector, and not an angled connector like my drawing.
>>> The pins and sockets were the solid style - in other words there was no
>>> splits to allow for expansion or contraction of the sockets or pins. This
>>> further added to the waterproof nature as now the wire (a possible leak
>>> point) was buried in solid rubber, behind a solid metal socket which itself
>>> was buried in solid rubber. Any water wicking along would have to travel
>>> 1/2" along the metal/rubber just to get past the socket.
>>> The connector body was a hard rubber, both the through-bulkhead block
>>> and the male connector. Under high pressures, the water can wick along the
>>> inside of the wires (between the copper and the outer insulation) or if you
>>> pass the wire through say, silicone rubber, it can wick along the junction
>>> of the outside of the wire and the encasing rubber. So the longer that
>>> travel distance is, the higher the pressure needs to be to force water
>>> through those avenues. That rubber block was only maybe 2 inches left to
>>> right in my drawing. I don't remember what pressures or depths it was rated
>>> for, but I guarantee you it could take a LOT of pressure. Mechanically
>>> (because the bulkhead hole was small) and in keeping watertight. The
>>> biggest risk for a leak was if the bulkhead got a scratch where the o-ring
>>> seated against it. I have no doubt that connector could have taken
>>> hydraulic pressures (thousands of PSI).
>>> I did not draw this in my pretty picture, but the head of the brass tube
>>> probably had multiple rings inside the rubber, both to get good mechanical
>>> locking between the rubber body and the brass body, and to make the
>>> greatest distance the water would have to travel to get around from outside
>>> to inside the tube, if it were to wick along the junction between brass and
>>> rubber. But I'm speculating there because I didn't cut one of those
>>> connector$ open to find out. Lest I get fired and stuff for destroying a
>>> connector worth hundreds of dollars, you know.  :D Just, when I go to make
>>> my own connectors, I'll be making the mounting tube like that, for those
>>> reasons. The rubber that made up the connector body filled everything,
>>> including right to the bottom of the brass tube.
>>> The nice thing about making your own connector as well is that you can
>>> make the electrical pins, sockets and wires any size you want to match your
>>> electrical current needs.
>>>
>>> These particular connectors could be plugged and unplugged underwater,
>>> but I suspect it would be very difficult to do as it would have to displace
>>> water or vacuum from the connector holes. But as you can see, the male pins
>>> had insulating rubber for a part of their length to maximize the distance
>>> the electricity would have to travel from pin to pin, thus maximizing the
>>> electrical resistance from pin to pin as well.
>>> Hope that helps,
>>> Ian
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jun 8, 2020 at 12:09 PM Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles <
>>> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I posted the other day about cable threw hull water tight fittings and
>>>> only got one response back and was hoping for more feed back as I know most
>>>> of you probably don't make your own so for the ones that buy them, is Blue
>>>> Globe the only player out there besides sealcon?
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Rick
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