[PSUBS-MAILIST] overlay welding
hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
personal_submersibles at psubs.org
Tue Nov 15 08:27:35 EST 2016
Hi Hames,Thanks' that is interesting, I remember now that the K subs require that on their pods. I have to use wire feed, but I am less afraid now. I gave my stick welder to my brother.Hank
On Tuesday, November 15, 2016 4:08 AM, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Hank,When I made the battery pod ends, I initially clad them. I used 309mo (which is what is specified for the dissimilar joints so I already had some). It machined fine and according to the spec, has good corrosion resistance. In the end, I didn't go with that method as I couldn't get it thick enough and kept machining too much off so I gave up and did it a different way. might be worth a look? http://www.magmaweld.com/ei_309mol_stainless_steel_stick_electrode.htmlJames
On 15 November 2016 at 03:20, Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
Hi Hank,303 SS is easiest to machine. Better than 304. However there is the corrosion issue.Google it for properties. Hugh From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles- bounces at psubs.org] On Behalf Of hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
Sent: Tuesday, 15 November 2016 3:49 PM
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] overlay welding Brian,Overlay welding is very common-Gamma has overlay weld on the hatch land. I do fully expect it to warp, but the overlay weld will be sufficiently thick to machine it true again. I will order some ss wire and weld up a shaft and see how it machines in my lathe before I jump into this. I can always hang it upside down in a vat to nickel plate it.Hank On Monday, November 14, 2016 7:38 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org> wrote: Would not really be feasible to do that, Hank, It's very tough material first of all, and I want to be able to change props to tweet performance. I don't want some odd ball prop connection that is not compatible with the rest of the world. You could have the thing machined perfect ( or you do it) first before you put it on, then machine out any warp-age . I think you're asking for trouble doing a overlay. That could warp as well. Brian
--- personal_submersibles at psubs. org wrote:
From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs. org>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] overlay welding
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2016 01:02:20 +0000 (UTC)Brian,That would be tough because the seat is conical, also it will be much cheaper to overlay weld. Why don't you make a bolt on axel extension to hold the prop. machine the axel hub down so it is just big enough to bolt to it.Hank On Monday, November 14, 2016 5:30 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org> wrote: Hank, Why don't you just weld on a stainless ring an inch or so thick and then machine that? Brian
--- personal_submersibles at psubs. org wrote:
From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs. org>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs. org>
Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] overlay welding
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2016 00:17:56 +0000 (UTC)Hi All,I am back to work on Elementary 3000 and first on the list is to overlay weld my hatch seat with stainless steel and machine it down again. I am building a vertical turret lathe instead of using my flange facing machine. I am building the lathe as an experiment also for a future project. My question is, what type of SS wire should I use. There is a chance that the sub will see salt water. I need to keep in mind that the material needs to be machining friendly.Hank______________________________ _________________ Personal_Submersibles mailing list Personal_Submersibles at psubs. org http://www.psubs.org/mailman/ listinfo.cgi/personal_ submersibles ______________________________ _________________
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