[PSUBS-MAILIST] overlay welding

Tue Nov 15 06:08:15 EST 2016

Hank,
When I made the battery pod ends, I initially clad them.  I used 309mo
(which is what is specified for the dissimilar joints so I already had
some).  It machined fine and according to the spec, has good corrosion
resistance.

In the end, I didn't go with that method as I couldn't get it thick enough
and kept machining too much off so I gave up and did it a different way.

might be worth a look?
http://www.magmaweld.com/ei_309mol_stainless_steel_stick_electrode.html
James

On 15 November 2016 at 03:20, Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Hi Hank,
>
> 303 SS is easiest to machine.  Better than 304.  However there is the
> corrosion issue.
>
> Google it for properties.  Hugh
>
>
>
> *From:* Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-
> bounces at psubs.org] *On Behalf Of *hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 15 November 2016 3:49 PM
> *To:* Personal Submersibles General Discussion
> *Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] overlay welding
>
>
>
> Brian,
>
> Overlay welding is very common-Gamma has overlay weld on the hatch land.
> I do fully expect it to warp, but the overlay weld will be sufficiently
> thick to machine it true again.  I will order some ss wire and weld up a
> shaft and see how it machines in my lathe before I jump into this.  I can
> always hang it upside down in a vat to nickel plate it.
>
> Hank
>
>
>
> On Monday, November 14, 2016 7:38 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
>
> Would not really be feasible to do that, Hank, It's very tough material
> first of all, and I want to be able to change props to tweet performance.
> I don't want some odd ball prop connection that is not compatible with the
> rest of the world.
>
>
>
>   You could have the thing machined perfect ( or you do it)  first before
> you put it on, then machine out any warp-age .  I think you're asking for
> trouble doing a overlay.  That could warp as well.
>
>
>
> Brian
>
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>
> From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] overlay welding
> Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2016 01:02:20 +0000 (UTC)
>
> Brian,
>
> That would be tough because the seat is conical, also it will be much
> cheaper to overlay weld.
>
> Why don't you make a bolt on axel extension to hold the prop.  machine the
> axel hub down so it is just big enough to bolt to it.
>
> Hank
>
>
>
> On Monday, November 14, 2016 5:30 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hank,    Why don't you just weld on a stainless ring an inch or so thick
> and then machine that?
>
>
>
> Brian
>
> --- personal_submersibles at psubs.org wrote:
>
> From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles at psubs.
> org>
> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] overlay welding
> Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2016 00:17:56 +0000 (UTC)
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am back to work on Elementary 3000 and first on the list is to overlay
> weld my hatch seat with stainless steel and machine it down again.  I am
> building a vertical turret lathe instead of using my flange facing
> machine.  I am building the lathe as an experiment also for a future
> project.
>
> My question is, what type of SS wire should I use.  There is a chance that
> the sub will see salt water.   I need to keep in mind that the material
> needs to be machining friendly.
>
> Hank
>
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