Has anyone here done their own anodizing? I have a big dome seat that I
will one day have to anodize, and when I inquired about it (years ago)
the price I was quoted was in the thousands of dollars. As far as I
know, this only takes a tub and some chemicals, not complex machinery,
so it sounds like a candidate for a DIY attempt.
*From:*owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org
[mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org] *On Behalf Of
*vbra676539@aol.com
*Sent:* Friday, May 25, 2012 1:37 PM
*To:* personal_submersibles@psubs.org
*Subject:* Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] aluminum to steel
-----Original Message-----
From: Emile van Essen <emile@airesearch.nl>
To: personal_submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Sent: Fri, May 25, 2012 1:11 pm
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] aluminum to steel
Vance, (or other specialists)
Anodized aluminum works nicely if well done. There are pinhole issues
with it that cause some problems, and threading is always an issue. Any
thread in aluminum must be carefully cleaned and filled so that salt
water is excluded, as the salts will cause a buildup and jam SS bolts
tight.
> Yep I know the problem with jammed bolts. Today I assembled some
pieces with anti seize paste. But it looks like it contains copper
particles.; wrong??
Definitely wrong. Add seawater and you have made a battery. Never-seize
variants are available without the copper and would definitely be worth
locating.
Emile
-----Original Message-----
From: Emile van Essen <_emile@airesearch.nl_ <mailto:emile@airesearch.nl>>
To: personal_submersibles <_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_
<mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org>>
Sent: Sat, May 12, 2012 3:37 pm
Subject: RE: [PSUBS-MAILIST] aluminum to steel
Magnesium corrodes quickly but Zink on a sub with Alu parts seems not useful
to me..
Electric leakage; should be avoided. Does anybody know the right way to
measure it??
I prefer to anodise the Alu parts. Looks good, is corrosion resistant and
the ALu is not conductive anymore.
Delrin/nylon washers are also a good idea!
Emile
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van:_owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org_ <mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
[_mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org_ <mailto:owner-personal_submersibles@psubs.org?>] Namens Vance Bradley
Verzonden: zaterdag 12 mei 2012 20:58
Aan:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_ <mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org>
Onderwerp: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] aluminum to steel
Every week? Sounds like a high resistance short to ground. Our zincs lasted
2-3 YEARS in and around Norway. For anodes, we used zincs on steel and
magnesium on aluminum. They all lasted a good while unless there was an
electrical problem, which we corrected ASAP.
Vance
Sent from my iPhone
On May 12, 2012, at 12:14 PM,_MerlinSub@t-online.de_ <mailto:MerlinSub@t-online.de> wrote:
Sounds right.
But in saltwater use you have still to use zink anodes to protect your
aluminium.
On Kreideseesub we have to exhange the anodes in salt water (Norway) every
week..
vbr Carsten
"ojaivalleybeefarm @dslextreme.com" <_ojaivalleybeefarm@dslextreme.com_ <mailto:ojaivalleybeefarm@dslextreme.com>>
schrieb:
Hi,
I've been contemplating using aluminum as a truss type
structure
to hold one part of my sub. As long as I isolate the two dissimilar
metals
I should be ok ? Right ? Where the it is bolted together I was going
to
have a separating"gasket" made out of rubber or a tough plastic. and
then
where the bolts go through I would have sleeves around the bolts. Sound
ok
? Any comments would be greatly appreciated. thanks.
Brian
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Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2425/4993 - datum van uitgifte:
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