Hi James,
Sorry, on looking at your diagram I see that the 5
psi cracking pressure valve doesn't come
between your through hull & gauge wich I
thought was the case when I suggested it would
read 10ft short due to the 5 psi cracking
pressure.
With the flood valve option couldn't you put a T
fitting before your main valve & off the T, a valve
then a reducer to
your gauge?
Regards Alan
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 6:22
AM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] HP Stop
valve for gauges.
Hi Jim.
Didnt know such a thing as a surge protector existed, but it sounds like
it might be just what i need. I'll investigate them.
Thanks
James
On 8 November 2011 13:47, <JimToddPsub@aol.com>
wrote:
James,
Couldn't you put an automatic check valve in the line that leads to the
gauge ("surge protector") to prevent the HP air from hitting the gauge so
you don't have to do it manually each time?
Jim
Hi guys,
Sorry for late reply with this, ive been on a misserable
course for work.
Alec. Yes, im also concernded about hp air passing the
gauges. Hence the question. But, i suppose i could put a ball
valve in the line before the gauge and close it before operating the hp
air. Bit of an extra step, but would protect the gauges, plus id
have to remember to open the valve again after or i'd get incorrect
readings. But a possibility.
Vance. Im not 100% sure i understand. Do you mean use the
bottom bulkhead fitting and separate it out? If so, that fitting
goes into the VBT, which could be full of water, or air and at various
pressures? Surely you must mean something else?
Alan. Again, sorry but i dont understand how the gauge could
read 10ft short. I suspect your thining the hp air would always be
on. It would be connected to a diving tank and valve, so the
check valve would only be stopping water going into the hp piping, it
wouldnt have any pressure on the "air" side until i cracked the
tank.
Good ideas for both the flood valve fitting and overpressure
valve. But unfortunately, both wont fit to a 1/4 or 1/2 inch
pipe.
I think im going to "T" it off from the forward ballast tank and have
the extra ball valve to shut off the valves to protect them from the tank
blow.
Also!, has anyone goot a better copy of page K-350 - 13 pipe
arrangement i could have? I have a copy that came with my plans, but
its such a dreadfull photocopy that i cant read half of it. I can
work it out of course, but it would be nice to actually see what the
official plans say.
Many thanks as always,
James
On 31 October 2011 21:24, Smyth, Alec <Alec.Smyth@compuware.com> wrote:
Hi
James,
I
would worry about the effect of a ballast blow on your depth
gauge. In addition, my suggestion would be to put check valves
directly on the through-hull of each MBT, rather than use a ball valve
as indicated in your diagram. In effect, you then have automatic
hull stops. I've found a through-hull such as would be
needed for a depth gauge can be welded in with only a local
touch-up required to the paint. But here's another idea... do you
have a through-hull for an overpressure valve? I used to have my
overpressure valve and depth gauge share the same
through-hull.
Thanks,
Alec
The
contents of this e-mail are intended for the named addressee only. It
contains information that may be confidential. Unless you are the named
addressee or an authorized designee, you may not copy or use it, or
disclose it to anyone else. If you received it in error please notify us
immediately and then destroy it.
Hi All,
Can i ask people's opinion on this. Due to an oversight on my
part, i am missing a through hull for a depth gauge.
So, i have an idea. I was thinking of putting the gauges on
the same line as the HP air for the forward tank. In this
configuration. See fantastic picture attached (i am at work so i
only have microsoft paint). Hope the pic makes it through.
The idea is i have the through hull, stop valve, t piece (or even a
"Y" piece) leading to 2 x redundant chemical protected gauges on one "t"
and on the other, the check valve followed by the hp air. Easier
to see in the picture.
This should allow water to the gauges while not filling the whole
line to the hp tank.
The check valve is 400 bar with a cracking pressure of
5psi.
The only problem i can see is that when blowing air, it may
interfere\damage the gauges? Bearing in mind they are chemical
protected so have a diaphram that will protect them from the water
itself.
Unless anyone has any better ideas. (I will have a normal
diviers gauge outside, but i want proper gauges inside).
Thanks
James
|