| 
 Hi James, 
Sorry, on looking at your diagram I see that the 5 
psi cracking pressure valve doesn't come 
between your through hull & gauge wich I 
thought was the case when I suggested it would 
read 10ft short due to the 5 psi cracking 
pressure. 
With the flood valve option couldn't you put a T 
fitting before your main valve & off the T, a valve  
then a reducer to 
your gauge? 
Regards Alan 
  ----- Original Message -----  
  
  
  Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 6:22 
  AM 
  Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] HP Stop 
  valve for gauges. 
  
  
  Hi Jim. 
    
  Didnt know such a thing as a surge protector existed, but it sounds like 
  it might be just what i need.   I'll investigate them.
  
  Thanks 
  James 
     
  On 8 November 2011 13:47,  <JimToddPsub@aol.com> 
wrote:
   
    
    James, 
      
    Couldn't you put an automatic check valve in the line that leads to the 
    gauge ("surge protector") to prevent the HP air from hitting the gauge so 
    you don't have to do it manually each time? 
      
    Jim 
    
    
    
      
    
    
    
      Hi guys, 
        
      Sorry for late reply with this, ive been on a misserable 
      course for work. 
        
      Alec.  Yes, im also concernded about hp air passing the 
      gauges.  Hence the question.  But, i suppose i could put a ball 
      valve in the line before the gauge and close it before operating the hp 
      air.  Bit of an extra step, but would protect the gauges, plus id 
      have to remember to open the valve again after or i'd get incorrect 
      readings.  But a possibility. 
        
      Vance.  Im not 100% sure i understand.  Do you mean use the 
      bottom bulkhead fitting and separate it out?  If so, that fitting 
      goes into the VBT, which could be full of water, or air and at various 
      pressures?  Surely you must mean something else? 
        
      Alan.  Again, sorry but i dont understand how the gauge could 
      read 10ft short.  I suspect your thining the hp air would always be 
      on.  It would be connected to a diving tank and valve, so  the 
      check valve would only be stopping water going into the hp piping, it 
      wouldnt have any pressure on the "air" side until i cracked the 
tank. 
        
      Good ideas for both the flood valve fitting and overpressure 
      valve.  But unfortunately, both wont fit to a 1/4 or 1/2 inch 
      pipe. 
        
      I think im going to "T" it off from the forward ballast tank and have 
      the extra ball valve to shut off the valves to protect them from the tank 
      blow. 
        
      Also!, has anyone goot a better copy of page K-350 - 13 pipe 
      arrangement i could have?  I have a copy that came with my plans, but 
      its such a dreadfull photocopy that i cant read half of it.  I can 
      work it out of course, but it would be nice to actually see what the 
      official plans say. 
        
      Many thanks as always, 
      James 
        
        
        
      
    
      On 31 October 2011 21:24, Smyth, Alec  <Alec.Smyth@compuware.com> wrote:
       
        
        
        Hi 
        James, 
          
        I 
        would worry about the effect of a ballast blow on your depth 
        gauge. In addition, my suggestion would be to put check valves 
        directly on the through-hull of each MBT, rather than use a ball valve 
        as indicated in your diagram. In effect, you then have automatic 
        hull stops. I've found a through-hull such as would be 
        needed for a depth gauge can be welded in with only a local 
        touch-up required to the paint. But here's another idea... do you 
        have a through-hull for an overpressure valve? I used to have my 
        overpressure valve and depth gauge share the same 
        through-hull. 
          
        Thanks, 
         Alec 
         
        
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        Hi All, 
          
        Can i ask people's opinion on this.  Due to an oversight on my 
        part, i am missing a through hull for a depth gauge. 
          
        So, i have an idea.  I was thinking of putting the gauges on 
        the same line as the HP air for the forward tank.  In this 
        configuration.  See fantastic picture attached (i am at work so i 
        only have microsoft paint).  Hope the pic makes it through. 
          
        The idea is i have the through hull, stop valve, t piece (or even a 
        "Y" piece) leading to 2 x redundant chemical protected gauges on one "t" 
        and on the other, the check valve followed by the hp air.  Easier 
        to see in the picture.   
          
        This should allow water to the gauges while not filling the whole 
        line to the hp tank.   
         The check valve is 400 bar with a cracking pressure of 
        5psi. 
          
        The only problem i can see is that when blowing air, it may 
        interfere\damage the gauges?  Bearing in mind they are chemical 
        protected so have a diaphram that will protect them from the water 
        itself. 
          
        Unless anyone has any better ideas.  (I will have a normal 
        diviers gauge outside, but i want proper gauges inside). 
          
        Thanks 
        James 
          
          
            
         
        
        
          
       
  
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